Author: Jeremy

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Is Bleach Bad for the Environment?

Deciding whether it’s okay to flush bleach down the toilet or use it in the washing machine isn’t straightforward. – Its environmental impact hinges on its use and disposal. Employing bleach as a cleaning agent should be a considered choice, reserved for instances where less harmful alternatives, such as vinegar, oxy bleach (sodium percarbonate) citric acid, and cream cleansers have proven ineffective.

The Environmental Impact of Bleach In The Home

The potential hazards of bleach extend beyond its immediate effectiveness as a cleaner. When used inappropriately or in excess, bleach poses risks not only through direct exposure but also through its interaction with the environment. For instance, bleach fumes can be more potent at higher temperatures, meaning its better to use bleach with cooler water to reduce chlorine fumes. Importantly too, bleach should never be mixed with other cleaners due to its high reactivity with acids and ammonia, which can produce toxic chlorine-based gases.
We must also recognise that bleaches disinfecting, bleaching and cleaning power is unrivalled. For certain cleaning challenges, like eradicating mould from washing machine seals, there’s no alternative to bleach’s potent cleaning power. In such scenarios, where the alternative might be discarding the appliance, the judicious use of bleach is the more environmentally friendly option. Then again, if the washing machine had not been allowed to become mouldy through a weekly preventative clean with vinegar, we’d not need the bleach either.

The Environmental Impact of Bleach Down the Drain

Bleach’s journey doesn’t end after it swirls into the drain. Left in pure water, bleach will ultimately degrade into table salt and water, especially when exposed to sunlight. This degradation can happen swiftly, often within days, under the right conditions. Bleach becomes more problematic when it encounters other substances including ammonia and simple organic matter in sewage systems, leading to the creation of trace amounts of harmful chemicals such as carcinogenic trihalomethanes, chloramines, and other chlorinated compounds. These byproducts can threaten aquatic ecosystems and human health if they are allowed to enter water bodies. Therefore, while a bowl of bleach left in the sun might harmlessly transform into salty water within days, its introduction to the complex environment of the sewer system can yield unpredictable and potentially harmful chemical reactions.

Modern Sewage Treatment

Fortunately, contemporary sewage treatment plants are adept at managing bleach, diluting, and converting it to minimize environmental harm before its release. However, this capacity varies significantly with the infrastructure in place. In regions lacking sophisticated wastewater management or in homes relying on septic systems, flushing bleach down the drain is never a good idea. Introducing bleach into a septic system can be particularly detrimental, as it disrupts the microbial processes essential for breaking down sewage in the septic tank, leading to environmental and health hazards.  Sewage will no longer be effectively treated, as well as toxic and biohazardous compounds may be introduced to local waterways and groundwater.

So - is Bleach Bad for the Environment?

Bleach’s environmental impact is a matter of responsible use. If you’re lucky to live in an area that has advanced sewage treatment plants, flushing bleach down the toilet is likely to have a negligible environmental impact, but not no environmental impact. Bleach – and the trace toxic compounds it has transformed into on its way to the sewage treatment plant – still requires resources to remediate, that milder cleaners like vinegar would not. It’s also important to bear in mind that the treatment plant is also unlikely to remove and treat all of the bleachs trace by products, so there is likely to be some spillover into the environment. While bleach can pose risks if used thoughtlessly or excessively, giving a little consideration to what happens after it goes down your drain, goes a long way to mitigating its impact.

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Vinegar Washing Machine Clean: The Effortless Solution for a Clean Washer

If you’re anything like me, keeping the house clean feels like a never-ending battle, especially when it comes to laundry. But fear not, because I’ve got a trick up my sleeve that’ll not only keep your bath towels hygienic and fresh, but will also ensure your washing machine stays healthy and clean – especially if you usually run cold washes only.  It’s all about washing towels.

Let’s talk about those bath towels – they’re little germ magnets, right? With all the moisture they soak up, and the humid environment they spend much of their time, it’s no wonder they need a good wash frequently to eradicate those musty smells.  But here’s the thing – putting those musty towels into your washer on a cold wash is also a great way to accidentally dose your washing machine with humidity loving microbes.  The same microbes causing that musty towel smell , you’ve just introduced them into your washer, where they’ll happily set up camp, especially loving the nooks and crannies of the rubber door boot.

The Issue with Cold Wash Cycles

If you wash on cold cycles either to save money or for sustainability reasons – or both – your machine, especially the rubber seals, will be particularly susceptible to microbe invasion.  While washing on cold cycles is a great way to save money and is the more sustainable way to go, you also want you washing machine to, well, wash – and part of that is sanitisation.  Cold water washes do little to nothing to kill microbes, and they thrive in the humid environment inside your washing machine if they get established.  Using hot water as a sanitising agent is the more sustainable option as opposed to waiting for the machine to become a mould infested heath hazard that at best needs bleach and harsher chemicals to resolve, and at worst sees the machine thrown away well before its time.

A Simple Solution: A Hot Wash, Once a Week

I’ve found the best way to keep my machine fresh is by throwing my towels in for a spin at 60°C (140°F) once a week. If you make a habit of washing your towels once a week, it also sets a good sanitation schedule for the washer, and the rest of the time you can continue washing on cold cycles. Here’s the beauty of it – by keeping up with those weekly towel washes, you’re inadvertently staying on top of washing machine maintenance too. It’s a two for one, a three for one if you count the built in reminder to sanitise your machine. You’ve gotta love the efficiency! I recommend a wash temperature of around 60°C, but you can go hotter if you want to. Higher temperatures result in faster, and more certain elimination of microbes:
  • At 90°C (194°F), bacteria and moulds are eradicated within minutes.
  • At 60°C (140°F), it takes around 30 minutes to achieve the same level of sterilization.
  • At 50°C (122°F) it typically requires around 60 minutes to effectively kill germs. Any colder and you’re unlikely to get full sanitation

Remember – the cycle you select will also include fill, rinse and spin time, so you can’t just go off the cycle time displayed on the machine. It’s also worth bearing in mind that the water sits in the bottom of the bowl, and you want to sanitise the whole bowl right up to the top. So while you might have 50 degree water sitting at the bottom of the bowl that might not be enough to heat the top of the bowl, and in particular the top of the rubber door seal, meaning that once the cycle is over, microbes are ready and waiting to quicky recolonise the machine from the top.

Will Hot Water Ruin my Towels?

While most towel manufacturers recommend regular washing at 40°C and an occasional deep clean at 40-60°C to eradicate bacteria and body oil accumulation, I prefer ensuring my towels are thoroughly cleaned after each wash. I’d rather not have a build up at all – to me the presence of a build up can only mean my towels are not coming out of the wash clean enough. To my mind if a towel cannot withstand temperatures hot enough to sanitise it, it is not fit for purpose.

Temperatures below 60°C are unlikely to achieve effective sanitation under real-world conditions. Washing towels at 60°C, despite a possibly diminished lifespan, is a compromise I’m willing to make for consistently clean towels and a sanitised washing machine.  It’s a bit like saying if you leave the towel in the drawer and never use it, you will extend its lifespan.  Sure, but its not very useful to me if I can never use it, just like its not useful to me if I slather myself in bacteria and body oil every time I leave the shower. 

For towels made from a cotton rich or poly-cotton blend, a 60°C wash could excessively shorten their lifespan. In practice for those looking to sanitize towels and bed sheets effectively without compromising fabric integrity, opting for 100% cotton materials is a better choice. Poly-cotton blends are not fit for purpose when it comes to towels and bedding because they cannot usually be safely washed at the temperatures needed for proper sanitation. Avoid cotton rich or poly-cotton blends especially if you’re looking to avoid environmental downsides like microplastics shedding in the wash and ending up not just down the drain, but blasted out from your dryer as lint, and then shed over your body as you dry yourself. Going for pure cotton might hit the wallet a bit harder, but it’s a better choice for both health and environmental reasons. 

A Bonus Tip: Vinegar as a Fabric Softener

Adding vinegar to the fabric softener compartment will not only help soften your towels, it’s great for preventing mould infestations with its anti-microbial properties, while being safe and non-toxic.

Dealing with an Already Infested Machine?

Now you know the best way to keep your front loader washing machine clean, and prevent mould infestations, but what if you’re dealing with a mould infested machine?  If you can see mould, its too late for hot washes and vinegar.  Vinegar is a great preventative, but once mould has taken hold, you need to turn to harsher chemicals like bleach. Read our guide here.

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The Pitfalls of Airbnb Management in Melbourne and Victoria: Lessons from a Failed Host

In the tumultuous real estate landscape of late 2022, I put my beloved investment property a few hours outside of Melbourne in one of the goldfield towns on the market for sale. My tenants had moved out, scared away by the prospect of a new landlord, and suspecting selling might take some time, I decided it might be prudent to hedge against failure by testing the waters of Airbnb hosting, converting my century old renovated miner’s cottage into a charming retreat for travellers. Nestled a town steeped in gold rush history and teeming with tourists, the prospects seemed promising.

Setting up my my Airbnb, I went to great lengths to deck out the place. From Airbnb’s must haves to thoughtful extras, I went all in. Balancing my fulltime employment in Melbourne with hosting duties, I shuffled between the two cities, crashing at my mum’s place when the guests rolled in. The grind was real – weekly top tier cleanups and constant upkeep. But it paid off handsomely, earning me the coveted superhost status and an impressive average rating that danced above the 4.8 star mark. I charged $100 for a weeknight, and $160 on a Friday and Saturday night with a 2 night minimum. I was making more than I would in rent, and it was functioning as my own house as well; I felt like a financial genius. Just as well because the house wasn’t selling, so I pulled it from the market and committed to Airbnb.

Running an Airbnb wasn’t all sunshine and rainbows though. Living in the property while hosting added another layer of complexity. Balancing the comfort of my personal space with delivering a top notch experience guests expected required finesse. Every week I’d have to deep clean the house to an end of lease standard, which was at least made easier by the fact I’d done the same clean a week earlier. All of my personal belongings had to be shoved away in my locked off bedroom, the bathroom, pantry and fridge all cleaned out.  It was a real hassle. The experience underscored the importance of a separate bathroom and scaled back kitchen access, minimising the hassle of constant cleaning. I’d also consider engaging an Airbnb cleaning service, it didn’t make sense to do it all myself when I could hire someone for $100 a clean to do the majority of the work.

Key Lessons I Learned from Self Hosting an Airbnb:

Necessity is Key 

Don’t bother trying to meet all of Airbnb’s requests for additional amenities like workstations, restrained furniture, BBQs, etc – unless you have a good reason for it.  Airbnb will push you to keep adding amenities, which I found weren’t used and didn’t impact my bookings at all.

Pet vs. Kid Friendly

Choose wisely between kid friendly and pet friendly – it’s an either or situation. Neither is also a good option. It’s a lot of extra work to list as child friendly. I tried to be both pet friendly and child friendly, and it bit me with a one star review from an anxious parent. Children spend a lot of time on the ground, and parents, especially new ones, will give you a poor review for the slightest bit of dust. In my view, you need to choose between pet friendly or child friendly, and those with pets are usually just grateful you’ve let their pet stay. I already had a dog, and my property was perfect for pets, with hard floors and a large secure yard, so it made sense for me to be a pet friendly property. It didn’t make sense for me to try and facilitate a child friendly property.

Personal Connections

Building pre-stay rapport with guests is more than just a tip; it’s absolutely necessarry if you want to be a superhost. It makes a big difference. There are essentially two groups of people. Those that understand unless something serious went wrong, with consideration to the nightly rate, it should be 5 stars. Then there’s the other group that believes that nothing deserves 100% and there’s always room for improvement. I once had a guest leave a 4 star review based on value, and when I asked what I might do to improve the value, he said “nothing, I thought it was great value!” The latter group makes achieving the 4.8 star Superhost status very difficult, and throw in the odd 1 or 2 stars from a neurotic new parent, and you’re left struggling. Doing it properly means reaching out to guests before they arrive and making them see you as a person, not a business. A person they would feel bad for if they left a bad review – after all – you’re friends now, right? Seal the deal with a bespoke local gift, maybe a locally made pillow mint or a local bottle of wine.

Bathroom and kitchen

If you’re going to live in the property you are inviting guests into, having your own separate bathroom and kitchen would make a big difference in your comfort. It would be much easier to not have to live out of a toiletries bag, and need to clean the oven, stove and fridge out every. single. week. 

Airbnb Property Management - The Big Mistake:

If I had a time machine and could go back to the point I decided to seek Airbnb property management, and not, I would. It all went awry when I was offered a position as a caretaker for a large empty house in Mt Eliza. I would stay in the granny flat and in return maintain the property. A good deal, but it put me too far away from my Airbnb in the goldfields to keep running it myself, and I didn’t need two homes either. As I considered whether I should put my property back up for rent or find an alternative solution to keep running it as an Airbnb, I hit upon something on Google one night. An ad from Airbnb flashed up to the top of my screen “Airbnb Management Melbourne.” I went down the rabbit hole, and here was Airbnb themselves recommending potential airbnb rental management companies to me. People who would manage the property and look after everything. Fantastic, I thought.

The First Airbnb Property Management Co host

What a mistake. The first Airbnb management co host I put on seemed great and accommodating at first but quickly became difficult to work with. They became domineering and stubborn and impossible to work with. After only 2 short weeks, they informed me by SMS that they had decided to go a different direction with their business and instead of Airbnb property management, they were going to rent out houses and run them themselves. Instead of being annoyed, I felt a wave of relief rush over me that I wouldn’t have to disentangle myself from this person I’d perhaps too quickly rushed into a working relationship with. Perhaps I had put too much credence on Airbnb’s apparent recommendation of them. When the co host refused to pay me my share of the booking income and Airbnb did absolutely nothing to help, instead referring me to the police and my local court system, I lost my trust in Airbnb and realised I shouldn’t trust their recommendations 

The Second Airbnb Property Management Co host

Ultimately, the house ended up being off the platform for a month, in which time I’d found a new Airbnb manager, based locally like the first, and also recommended by Airbnb. This time I did more due diligence and checked for other reviews, and was a bit more hesitant to dive right in. But ultimately, I did, and my attitude was that as long as the place made more than I’d have made renting it after I’d paid for utility bills, that was ok.

After 2 months the place was making less than half of what I’d get if I rented it out, and that was before I’d paid for utilities. The problem was that the Airbnb manager wasn’t managing the property. Their idea of managing was to get good initial photos, list the property on booking.com and Airbnb, call the cleaner, and respond to customers if they made contact. When I arrived after not checking the place for 2 months, the bins and letterbox were overflowing, and the lawn was a foot tall. The robot mower which I’d been promised would be looked after hadn’t been properly attended to, and so hadn’t done its job. And worse, I hadn’t been notified about the state of my property whose care I’d entrusted to a manager. To this point, I’d not bothered to check the listing, but my faith in the Airbnb manager had been shaken. Upon checking, I saw the average rating – 3.4. Because the Airbnb rental management company hadn’t been reaching out to guests, they’d not been getting the best reviews. The latest review, a 1 star review, lamented the dirty beds, and the dangerous height of the lawn for their dog in a pet friendly property. When I checked the beds a few weeks later, I found them all to have significant dirt marks on the top of the doona covers. A dirty beds review is perhaps the worst you can possibly get, and a business I was paying good money to manage the property had failed to ensure the beds were appropriately clean.

Since that guest had stayed, another had stayed after I’d brought the lawns back down and cleaned up the garden. When I asked the Airbnb manager if they would please reach out to this guest and beg for a good review to put the 1 star review at least not right at the top, my contact responded, “I don’t beg.” When I asked for the guests contact details so I could do it, they dropped me as a customer. It was at this point I’d now been through 2 out of the 3 Airbnb managers in the local area; the third never returned my call. It was time to give up. It just didn’t work with a manager. I put the property back up for long term rent in January 2024 and called it a day.

Key Lessons I Learned From Engaging Airbnb Property Management

The main reason I think that it didn’t work with Airbnb rental management companies was twofold. First, the limited pool of potential Airbnb managers in a small town meant I wasn’t getting the best of the best, or anything even approaching this. The property wasn’t managed well, and pricing wasn’t adjusted dynamically. The second problem was the comparatively low nightly rate paired with a substantial cleaning cost. The best occupancy I had was around 25% when it needed to hit closer to 70% to make it a better option than renting out to a long term tenant. And to do that the pricing would need to be adjusted for midweeks, time of year, and all the other factors when I believe it was just up for the one expensive fixed nightly rate every day of the year of approximately $240.

The second problem was the comparatively low nightly rate that was achievable for the property coupled with the high cost of airbnb cleaning services of around $185 a go on an average 2 night stay. Add the 10-20% charged by Airbnb rental management companies that was taken off the top of everything including cleaning, and there was just nothing left. The cleaning fee was made worse by the relative size of the property as well; it would have been better to have something smaller than a three bedroom detached house.

All up my Airbnb management experience was a failure, and I think it always would have been. Were my property able to be rented out for significantly more per night by being in a trendy Melbourne suburb or inner city, then I think it would be different. There would be access to more and better Airbnb management in Melbourne. Booking fees can be much higher, and the cleaning cost as a percentage of total revenue would be lower.

The main takeaway for those considering Airbnb management in Melbourne or Victoria is this – It is much harder to make the economics stack up when you bring in an Airbnb cleaning service and Airbnb management. Realistically it’s unlikely to work outside of Melbourne unless you’re self hosting.  If you’re self hosting it can be a great earner and pay the bills, but for regional Victorians, forget about Airbnb property management for your Airbnb.

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What Temperature Should My Fridge Be? In °F!

A thermometer showing the different temperatures to store groceries in degrees fahrenheit

When it comes to setting the temperature for your fridge, the general consensus is colder than 41°F for optimal food safety. However, the reality is a bit more nuanced. Most domestic fridges allow you to adjust temperatures between 34°F and 48°F in the fridge and 14°F to -4°F in the freezer. So, why the range?

A thermometer showing the different temperatures to store groceries in degrees fahrenheit

How Cold Should a Fridge Be?

Ideal Temperature: Less than 41°F

Real-world Recommendation: 37°F

Food Standards Australia New Zealand recommends keeping your fridge below 41°F for optimum food safety and to prevent the growth of food-poisoning bacteria. However, due to factors like varying temperatures within the fridge and fluctuations, setting it to around 37°F on the top shelf is usually the sweet spot.

Temperature Fluctuations

The fridge is not a static environment; it maintains an average temperature, not a precise one. Rather than consistently holding a specific temperature like 37°F, it might fluctuate between 34°F and 41°F.

Hot Air Rises


Another compounding factor is the simple fact that hot air rises and cold air sinks. So while the temperature of the fridge is dynamic, it is also usually warmer on the top shelf and colder on the bottom shelf. So while the top shelf may be varying between 34-41 degrees, the vegetable crisper might be 32-39 degrees, or worse 30-37°F. So your nice lettuce is freezing and thawing several times a day into a soggy mess. It’s good advice to store the perishable groceries like meat, fish, juice, and dairy closer to the bottom of the fridge, with condiments and non-perishables closer to the top. 37°F on the top shelf should mean the top shelf never goes above 41°F while the contents of the vegetable crisper don’t freeze.

You Get What You Pay For!

Fridge temperature fluctuation is influenced by factors such as the frequency of door openings, how loaded it is, external temperature, and the capacity of the fridge’s cooling system. Better fridges have less fluctuation, and often you get what you pay for. Fisher and Paykel fridges, for example, can, and often do, run their fans independently of the compressor to circulate the air for a more consistent and stable temperature throughout. A cheaper fridge won’t do this. A better fridge would be expected to have 34°F or less of fluctuation from the average, and less than 34°F of difference between the top and bottom shelf, while a cheaper fridge could expect to see 35.6°F or more of fluctuation.

Why the Range?

If there’s really only one correct temperature for your fridge, then why do manufacturers bother to give you the ability to adjust it? Wouldn’t it be better if there was no need for you to have to Google this dumb information and your fridge was just set at the correct, safe, temperature already? Honestly yes, but it’s not practical. Other sources will give you bad answers – wanting to save energy or storing cold-sensitive items at a warmer temperature.

The real reason is that over time, thermostats and sensors go out of their factory range. The same setting on one would be a slightly different temperature to another, and with time and entropy, as springs lose their tension, and corrosion creeps in, things go out of whack. The setting that used to be 37°F is now 39°F or 36°F, and without the ability to make an adjustment, your fridge isn’t running where it should be, significantly reducing its service life.

How Cold Should a Freezer Be?

Ideal Temperature: 0°F or colder

The freezer’s primary role is to keep food frozen, preserving it for extended periods.  The ideal temperature for the freezer compartment is 0°F or lower. This temperature is cold enough to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mould, ensuring the long-term preservation of your frozen goods.  Setting the temperature at 0°F or colder helps maintain the quality, texture, and flavour of the frozen items.  Food is less prone to freezer burn, and less subject to degradation caused by enzymes in the food.  On the downside running your freezer this cold will mean it costs more to run, and will have a shorter service life than if you ran it hotter, simply due to wear and tear on the mechanical systems being on longer.

Adjusting for Practicality

Having adjustability in the freezer makes more sense because it really depends on how an individual user wants to go about things. A classic example is ice cream. If you want to store the ice cream, the right temperature is colder than 0°F. But ice cream that cold is not fun to eat; it is rock hard. Your spoon has bent trying to scoop it out of the container, and then you have to wait 10 minutes for it to thaw out enough to eat. But the thing is it doesn’t thaw consistently; the outside melts while the inside stays a frozen solid core. If you just bought ice cream, you plan on eating it in the next week, and you want it to be nice and creamy and delicious all the way through, you want your freezer set at around -12°C (10°F), the perfect ice cream eating temperature.

You might also want to save some money, and running your freezer warmer will save you money. Do you want to eat that spaghetti bolognese you made in the next three weeks or the next 3 months? If you want to store your food longer, you want to keep it colder. But if nothing stays in your freezer for more than a few weeks, you don’t need it very cold. The general consensus seems to be that if you keep your freezer at or below -18°C (0°F), it will be safe to eat indefinitely, but after 3-12 months depending on what it is, the flavor and texture will begin to suffer.

Freezer Size Matters

If you have a fridge with a smaller freezer, like the 248L Fisher and Paykel, generally, you need to run the freezer colder. Most domestic fridges max out at -4°F in the freezer. As a general rule, I’d say anything below 300L total capacity should be run pretty cold in the freezer. This is because during the defrost cycle, where a heater turns on in the back of every frost-free fridge for about 20 minutes every 1-2 days, the contents of a little freezer just don’t have the thermal mass to stay frozen, especially if it’s pretty empty. If they’re not very frozen at the start of the defrost cycle, there’s a good chance they will have thawed out by the end of it. One of the most common symptoms of this is ice cream that has melted and then frozen solid like an ice block.

Final Considerations

A couple of other considerations are the fridge quality and how often the freezer door will be opened. If it’s a cheap appliance from an unknown brand you might expect more temperature fluctuations and to make sure it’s not getting too warm, you need to set it colder. If you have kids constantly opening the freezer door in the middle of Summer to get to the icy poles again, better to set it colder as the more the door is opened, especially on a hot day the more the freezer temperature will fluctuate. If you’re worried about the power going out setting your freezer colder makes sense as well since the colder it is when the power goes out, the more likely it is you will make it through the blackout with the contents of your freezer still frozen.

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Why Does My Washing Machine Take So Long?

A person frustrated their washing machine is taking longer than expected

Do you wonder why your washer will tell you that a wash will be say 60 minutes, but then you come back 3 hours later and there’s still 20 minutes remaining? Why does it gaslight you? Wonder no more! As an appliance repair expert I can tell you why, and better yet – it’s an easy issue for anyone to work out with no tools required or experience needed.

A person frustrated their washing machine is taking longer than expected

There are a number of reasons your washer can be taking longer than it claims it will, from the temperature you select, water pressure, and how loaded the washer is. Most of the time, especially for a frontloader, it’s because you’re overloading your washer. Sometimes, but more rarely, its because your water pressure is no good or you’re running a two inlet machine on only cold water. Lastly it can be because of the water temperature you’re selecting. It’s really unlikely there’s a fault with your machine.

Overloading The Washing Machine

For frontloaders, and less so for toploaders, overloading can make your wash take much longer.  If you’re having big blowouts in time, this is the first place to start. 

Frontloader Washing Machines

Modern frontloader washing machines (anything built after around the year 2000) are all controlled by a computer. The Fisher Paykel frontloaders we carry at Whybuy, and that I specialise in, are computer controlled. Before they go into a spin cycle the drum gently starts spinning. The computer then carries out what we can call a clothing distribution test – How many amps is the motor using and how consistent is this use? This test determines how well distributed the clothes are in the bowl and if its likely to be balanced enough for a spin. If the test fails, it restarts again. And it can go on restarting and restarting for 45 minutes before giving up and throwing an out of balance error, requiring human intervention. On the Fisher and Paykel frontloaders you will get an “Out of Bal” message flashing on the screen, at which point you need to remove some clothes and restart a brand new cycle. Hooray! The more clothes you put into the machine, the more likely it is that you’re going to fail the clothing distribution test by going over the amp threshold in any given test. Given there can be up to 4 spin cycles in any given wash, its easy to see how you can have a big blowout in the initial time.

Toploader Washing Machines

Toploaders follow essentially the same procedure in balancing out the clothes as a frontloader but they give up on rebalancing much sooner (usually within 10 minutes) and call for human help. This is because once the water has drained out of the tub ready for a spin, there’s nothing the machine can do to move the clothes around if they’re not properly balanced out. The machine would have to fill with water again to do this, and I’ve never seen that. Towels and sheets are more likely to give you problems as they’re really heavy when wet and need to perfectly situated. If you’re finding your toploader is having a hard time balancing and calling for help often and on smaller loads, it usually means the shock absorbers are worn out and need replacement. In Australia at least, that’s a job that will cost more than the second hand replacement value of the machine and you’re better off just buying another.

It’s really easy to test if overloading your machine is the reason it is taking forever – just run it empty. Start a stopwatch or timer on your phone and come back when the machine says it should be done. If it finishes within 10 minutes of when it says it should, that’s fine, as remember there’s other factors that can slow it down, which we go through below.

Bad Water Pressure

This one is pretty simple. If you have bad water pressure your machine will take longer to fill. If it takes longer to fill the timer will be inaccurate. This is particularly noticeable if you have a gravity fed hot water service on a hot wash. Unless your water pressure is really bad this will generally only add a few minutes to a cycle. Really bad water pressure can also result in the machine throwing a fault. The water inlet solenoids need a certain amount of pressure to open, and if it’s not high enough the machine will not fill at all. For example, the Fisher Paykel frontloader will give you an error on very low water pressure “No Tap”. 

If you have good cold water pressure but bad hot water pressure (usually because of a gravity fed hot water service) and your machine is a frontloader, you might try turning off the hot water inlet tap, but that will also lead to a slightly slower machine in a different way as outlined below. Frontloader machines usually have on board heaters that can heat cold water to the temperature selected, so don’t always need both a hot and cold water connection. Some machines will give you the equivalent of a “No tap” error though, and must have both a hot and cold connection. Additionally, turning off the hot water supply tap isn’t a solution for a toploader as they typically do not have any on board heater. At least I’ve never seen one, but I’m sure there is a rare example somewhere. It’s funny because there’s no reason a toploader cannot have an on board heater, they just don’t. I’d guess its because they would have to heat much more water than a frontloader which would significantly slow down the cycle, removing one of two competitive edges a toploader has over a frontloader being that they’re faster than frontloaders, the other being you can put your clothes in from the top which is good for some people with mobility issues.

Running a Two Inlet Washer on Cold Only

Your washing machine might have a connection for both a hot and cold supply, or cold only. If your washer has both hot and cold inlets, but you’ve only connected the cold supply this can slow the wash down by a few minutes. Essentially what happens when you press go on any cycle other than cold is that your machine will call for hot water for a few minutes before it realises, Oh ok there’s no hot water coming, I’ll just use cold water and heat it. Some washers will just refuse to wash even though they are perfectly capable of heating the water themselves, they’ll throw a no tap error if there is no hot water tap connected.  It’s also important to note that not every washing machine has an on board heater.  Most toploader washing machines do not have a heater, and most frontloader washing machines do.  If you run a washer that doesnt have a heater on a hot wash and connect no hot supply, it will usually give an error code.

Hot Washes Can Make Your Washing Machine Slow

Another possibility that might cause your cycle to be slower than the machine is indicating is that you’ve got a frontloader and you’ve selected a hot wash. Lets say for example that you’ve got a machine that only has a cold water supply and you select a 90 degree hot wash cycle. The machine needs to spend time heating that water up before it can start its cycle. Even on a machine with a hot water inlet as well as cold, if your hot water service is far from the machine you’d be lucky if you got 30 degree water in. In Australia all new constructions require hot water to be no more than 50 degrees, so often, even in a best case scenario, the water in will be no hotter than 50 degrees, and it needs to be 90 degrees. While it’s somewhat predictable especially for a cold water inlet machine only, most manufacturers fail to account for this in a fit of optimism and wilful blindness. You won’t lose more than 10 minutes to this though. It can slow down a cycle a bit, but not a heap.

Marketing

The final reason your machine might be giving you optimistic cycle times is that it is actually gaslighting you. Manufacturers want to be able to put short cycle times on their machine and so tend to be optimistic about the conditions of the cycle. If the machine is running empty on a cold cycle and the water pressure is perfect, sure it will come in perfectly on time. But throw one thing out and the estimated time goes out the window. For the most part though its not going to be a significant amount of time.

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What Temperature Should My Fridge Be? In °C!

A thermometer showing the different temperatures to store groceries in degrees celcius

When it comes to setting the temperature for your fridge, the general consensus is colder than 5°C for optimal food safety. However, the reality is a bit more nuanced. Most domestic fridges allow you to adjust temperatures between 1°C and 9°C in the fridge and -10°C to -20°C in the freezer. So, why the range?

A thermometer showing the different temperatures to store groceries in degrees celcius

How Cold Should a Fridge Be?

Best Fridge Temperature: Less than 5°C

Real world Recommendation: 3°C

Food Standards Australia New Zealand recommends keeping your fridge below 5°C for optimum food safety and to prevent the growth of food-poisoning bacteria. However, due to factors like varying temperatures within the fridge and fluctuations, setting it to around 3°C on the top shelf is usually the sweet spot.

Temperature Fluctuations

The fridge is not a static environment; it maintains an average temperature not a precise one. Rather than consistently holding a specific temperature like 3°C, it might fluctuate between 1°C and 5°C.

Hot Air Rises

Another compounding factor is the simple fact that hot air rises and cold air sinks. So while the temperature of the fridge is dynamic, it is also usually warmer on the top shelf and colder on the bottom shelf. So while the top shelf may be varying between 1-5 degrees, the vegetable crisper might be 0-4 degrees, or worse -1-3°C. So your nice lettuce is freezing and thawing several times a day into a soggy mess. It’s good advice to store the perishable groceries like meat, fish, juice and dairy closer to the bottom of the fridge, with condiments and non-perishables closer to the top. 3°C on the top shelf should mean the top shelf never goes above 5°C while the contents of the vegetable crisper don’t freeze.

You Get What You Pay For!

Fridge temperature fluctuation is influenced by factors such as the frequency of door openings, how loaded it is, external temperature, and the capacity of the fridge’s cooling system.  Better fridges have less fluctuation and often you get what you pay for.  Fisher and Paykel fridges for example can, and often do, run their fans independently of the compressor to circulate the air for a more consistent and stable temperature throughout.  A cheaper fridge won’t do this.  A better fridge would be expected to have 1°C or less of fluctuation from the average, and less than 1°C of difference between the top and bottom shelf, while a cheaper fridge could expect to see 2°C or more of fluctuation.

Why Have an Adjustable Control if There is Only One Best Fridge Temperature?

If there’s really only one best fridge temperature, then why do manufacturers bother to give you the ability to adjust it? Wouldn’t it be better if there was no need for you to have to google this dumb information and your fridge was just set at the correct, safe, temperature already?  Honestly yes, but it’s not practical.  Other sources will give you bad answers – wanting to save energy, or storing cold sensitive items at a warmer temperature.

The real reason is that over time thermostats and sensors, go out of their factory range. The same setting on one would be a slightly different temperature to another, and with time and entropy, as springs lose their tension, and corrosion creeps in things go out of whack. The setting that used to be 3°C is now 4°C or 2°C, and without the ability to make an adjustment your fridge isn’t running where it should be, significantly reducing its service life.

How Cold Should a Freezer Be?

Ideal Temperature: -18°C or colder

The freezer’s primary role is to keep food frozen, preserving it for extended periods.  The ideal temperature for the freezer compartment is -18°C or lower. This temperature is cold enough to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mould, ensuring the long-term preservation of your frozen goods.  Setting the temperature at -18°C or colder helps maintain the quality, texture, and flavour of the frozen items.  Food is less prone to freezer burn, and less subject to degradation caused by enzymes in the food.  On the downside running your freezer this cold will mean it costs more to run, and will have a shorter service life than if you ran it hotter, simply due to wear and tear on the mechanical systems being on longer.

Adjusting for Practicality

Having adjustability in the freezer makes more sense, because it really depends on how an individual user wants to go about things. A classic example is ice cream. If you want to store the ice cream the right temperature is colder than -18°C. But ice cream that cold is not fun to eat, it is rock hard. Your spoon has bent trying to scoop it out of the punnet, and then you have to wait 10 minutes for it to thaw out enough to eat. But the thing is it doesn’t thaw consistently, the outside melts while the inside stays a frozen solid core. If you just bought icecream, you plan on eating it in the next week and you want it to be nice and creamy and delicious all the way through, you want your freezer set at around -12°C, the perfect ice cream eating temperature.

You might also want to save some money, and running your freezer warmer will save you money. Do you want to eat that spaghetti bolognaise you made in the next three weeks or the next 3 months? If you want to store your food longer, you want to keep it colder. But if nothing stays in your freezer for more than a few weeks, you don’t need it very cold. The general consensus seems to be that if you keep your freezer at or below -18°C it will be safe to eat indefinitely, but after 3-12 months depending on what it is, the flavour and texture will begin to suffer.

Freezer Size Matters

If you have a fridge with a smaller freezer, like the 248L Fisher and Paykel, generally you need to run the freezer colder. Most domestic fridges I’ve seen max out at -20°C in the freezer. As a general rule I’d say anything below 300L total capacity should be run pretty cold in the freezer. This is because during the defrost cycle, where a heater turns on in the back of every frost free fridge for about 20 minutes every 1-2 days, the contents of a little freezer just don’t have the thermal mass to stay frozen, especially if its pretty empty. If they’re not very frozen at the start of the defrost cycle, there’s a good chance they will have thawed out by the end of it. One of the most common symptoms of this is ice cream that has melted and then frozen solid like an ice block.

Final Considerations

A couple of other considerations are the fridge quality and how often the freezer door will be opened. If it’s a cheap appliance from an unknown brand you might expect more temperature fluctuations and to make sure it’s not getting too warm, you need to set it colder. If you have kids constantly opening the freezer door in the middle of Summer to get to the icy poles again, better to set it colder as the more the door is opened, especially on a hot day the more the freezer temperature will fluctuate. If you’re worried about the power going out setting your freezer colder makes sense as well since the colder it is when the power goes out, the more likely it is you will make it through the blackout with the contents of your freezer still frozen.

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What Number is The Coldest Setting On a Fridge?

TL;DR:  For 95 percent of fridges, turning the thermostat clockwise makes it colder.  Ignore the triangles, the numbers, the min and max.  Turn it clockwise to make it colder.  If you want to be 100 percent sure, read on for a more in depth test.

The Basics of Fridge Thermostats

It helps if you have at least a basic understanding of how a fridge thermostat operates when trying to figure out which way you want to turn it. 

  • On/Off Switch: The thermostat is essentially an on/off switch governed by the fridge’s internal temperature. It activates the compressor when it’s too warm and shuts it off when it’s cold enough, preventing short cycling.
  • Differential Temperature: The trigger temperature for turning off the compressor is not the same as turning it on, preventing short cycling, which can damage the compressor.
  • The 0 setting isore often found on mini fridges or bar fridges that operates a bit differently.  It’s essentially an off switch, and the warmest setting is 1, located right next to 0.

The coldest setting - min or max, 0-8 up or down?

You’d expect setting your fridge temperature to be straightforward, but manufacturers often throw in confusing labels.  Min and max.  Is it max temperature or max cooling?  Sometimes they are numbers. Is number 1 or number 7 setting hottest or coldest?  Is this degrees celcius?  Does 7 mean hotter than 1, or does it mean more cold? Little triangle pictograms are also common where it gets bigger and bigger.  We can’t begin to fathom what the designers of these fridges were thinking but here we are to see it through.  But as above, we can tell you to ignore all of it and just turn the thermostat clockwise to make it colder.

A Toolless Test (That Requires a Good Ear) To Be 100% Sure

  1. Max to Min: Start by turning the thermostat to what you believe is the hottest setting.
  2. Patience is Key: Wait for 2 hours.
  3. Listen Closely: Pay attention to the fridge compressor. When it’s silent, proceed.
  4. Twist and Listen: Gradually adjust the thermostat from the hottest to the coldest setting. You’ll hear a little “donk” from the thermostat when it triggers, and at the same time you should hear the compressor turn on. Wait a minimum 30 minutes between tests, if you want to retry, you can’t go again straight away, because of the thermostat’s differential temperature trigger, and the compressor overload switch.
  5. Reverse Psychology: If it’s not working, try the test in reverse, going from what you believe is the coldest to the hottest setting.
  6. The Final Check: If all else fails, consider that your thermostat may be faulty
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Celebrating History: Fisher & Paykel’s Fascinating Timeline

From its humble beginnings in 1934 as a small New Zealand enterprise importing refrigerators, Fisher & Paykel has evolved into a global leader in appliance and healthcare technology. This timeline offers a comprehensive overview of the company’s fascinating history, spanning nearly nine decades of innovation, expansion, and transformation.
Discover the key milestones that shaped Fisher & Paykel’s trajectory, from its early days as an importer to its ventures into manufacturing, healthcare, and international markets. Explore how the company navigated challenges, adapted to changing circumstances, and contributed to industry advancements.
Join us as we unveil the captivating story of Fisher & Paykel, a testament to the spirit of entrepreneurship, ingenuity, and resilience that has driven this company’s success.

1934

Fisher & Paykel’s was conceived in 1934, when two close friends, Woolf Fisher and Maurice Paykel, successfully sold surplus refrigerators originally imported by Paykel’s family business, Paykel Brothers. It all began when Olive Paykel requested her husband, George Paykel, to import a novel appliance – a Crosley refrigerator – which she had come across in the American Ladies’ Home Journal. Drawing on his experience as an importer, George brought in 22 of these refrigerators and eager buyers were easily found. The demand for these appliances led to the establishment of a burgeoning appliance importation enterprise, co-operated by Olive’s son, Maurice Paykel, and her son-in-law, Woolf Fisher. Thus, Fisher & Paykel was founded in Auckland, New Zealand, with a focus on importing Crosley refrigerators, Maytag washing machines, and Pilot mantle radios. With financial contributions from other family members, they opened their first office and showroom on the mezzanine floor of Queen’s Arcade, Auckland. At this nascent stage of appliance retailing, the fledgling firm supplemented its income by securing agencies for various other products, including record players, vacuum cleaners, irons, and toasters.

Woolf Fisher
Maurice Paykel

1938

In response to the New Zealand government’s ban on the importation of manufactured products, which posed a threat to their business, Fisher & Paykel took a proactive approach by establishing a factory to assemble appliances from parts obtained under license from companies like the American manufacturer, Kelvinator Corporation. Although it was no longer permissible to import fully assembled appliances, there was a legal loophole that allowed for the importation of their constituent parts, with onshore assembly.

1939

The outbreak of World War II brought some unexpected advantages to the burgeoning manufacturer. As washing machines and refrigerators were classified as essential industries, Fisher & Paykel’s business was shielded from closure due to material shortages or loss of staff. Consequently, they were able to expand their operations and relocate to larger, two-story premises on Carlaw Park Lane. By 1949, the company was producing 600 washing machines, 500 refrigerators, and 700 vacuum cleaners per month, struggling to keep up with the demand from retailers.

1940

Fisher & Paykel commenced the manufacture of their first homegrown appliance, the Whiteway Washing Machine, as well as refrigerators.

1953

The installation of the first washing machine conveyor line marked a significant milestone in their production process.

1955

The initial phase of the Mt Wellington plant commenced the production of refrigeration and laundry products.

1956

A new 48,000 square-foot, purpose-built factory was unveiled in Mt Wellington. Within just four years, fueled by fresh product launches and an extensive network of over 200 dealers exclusively marketing Fisher & Paykel products throughout New Zealand, the factory’s workforce expanded to 600 employees. The manufacturing of rotary clothes dryers, designed and patented by the company, also commenced. Fisher & Paykel acquired the cooking range manufacturer H. E. Shacklock Ltd, a dominant figure in the New Zealand domestic market dating back to 1873. Over time, the Shacklock brand was phased out.

1957

Allied Industries Ltd was established to manufacture Murphy radios and radiograms, which later served as the precursor to Fisher & Paykel Electronics.

1958

Fisher & Paykel inaugurated their London office.

1960

Allied Industries ventured into the manufacturing of TV receivers. Maurice Paykel, the son of Gary Paykel, joined Fisher & Paykel, introducing the concept of flexible manufacturing, which significantly enhanced efficiency. This approach enabled multiple products to be produced on the same assembly line, a stark contrast to competitors who could produce only a single model per production line. As a result, assembly time for a freezer, for instance, was reduced from 25 hours to just five hours.

1965

Fisher & Paykel signed an agreement with Matsushita Electric (Panasonic) for sole distributorship in New Zealand.

1966

The company’s headquarters relocated to Mt Wellington. Additionally, Champion Spark Plug New Zealand was established, and Allied Industries initiated the manufacturing of Waikato electric fence controllers.

1969

Allied Industries began manufacturing television tubes, while the origins of what would become Fisher & Paykel Healthcare trace back to the development of the first respiratory humidifier, created by Dr. Matt Spence, Alf Melville, and Dave O’Hare.

1970

Fisher & Paykel’s first respiratory humidifier was sold and marketed internationally.

1971

An agreement with Matsushita Electric (Panasonic) was signed for the marketing and eventual manufacture of National Panasonic products.

1972

The East Tamaki refrigerator manufacturing plant was inaugurated.

1974

The company celebrated the production of its one millionth refrigerator and one millionth laundry unit. Allied Industries constructed a new factory in Mangere.

1975

Sir Woolf Fisher passed away, leading to the appointment of Maurice Paykel as chairman and managing director. The Fisher & Paykel Group, now under the leadership of managing director Don Rowlands and chairman Maurice Paykel, comprised nine wholly-owned companies and nine subsidiaries, encompassing white goods and appliance manufacturing, a cartage company, a tool-making company, a finance firm, television manufacturing, cabinetmaking, spark plug manufacturing, and service companies.

1976

Fisher & Paykel Customer Services Ltd was established, and Don Rowlands was appointed general manager, subsequently becoming managing director. The assembly of National Panasonic televisions was also initiated.

1977

The Medical Division was established.

1979

Fisher & Paykel was listed on the New Zealand Stock Exchange with a capital value of 40 million NZD.

1980

The company reached the milestone of exporting one million appliances.

1981

H.E. Shacklock Ltd became wholly owned, and the Microcomputer Electronic Company was established. A shareholding in Henderson & Pollard was also acquired.

1982

Fisher & Paykel Medical established its presence in the United States. Applied Technology (Healthcare) was transferred to National Allied at Carbine Road.

1984

Fisher & Paykel celebrated its fiftieth anniversary, introducing refrigerators that received the Prince Philip Design Award. The MR500 Medical Humidifier was a finalist for the Prince Philip Design Award. The company also acquired a 50% interest in Isothermal Systems Inc.

1985

The company launched the ECS Electronic Control Systems washing machine, known as “Gentle Annie,” marking the world’s first use of a brushless DC motor in a washing machine. Gentle Annie was introduced following five years of intensive development. It featured electronic control systems, eliminating the traditional gearbox of alternative models for quieter and more reliable functionality. The year also saw the introduction of the Prince Philip Award Series refrigerators, manufactured on a new highly automated plant line. This product line expansion included new ranges of wall ovens, dishwashers, and freezers.

1986

The official opening of the range and dishwasher division’s new building took place at Taieri, Dunedin.

1987

The Fisher & Paykel Appliance brand was launched in Australia. Equiticorp acquired a major shareholding (23% at $5 per share). Fisher & Paykel also acquired the Australian medical distribution company Medcor, now known as Fisher & Paykel Healthcare Pty Ltd. Furthermore, Fisher & Paykel Electronics Ltd was created, formerly known as the Allied Products Division.

1988

Fisher & Paykel introduced the New Zealand maxi yacht, participating in the 1989/90 Whitbread Round the World Race.

1989

Construction commenced on the first major appliance facility offshore in Cleveland, Queensland, Australia. Equiticorp’s 30% shareholding was transferred to friendly investors. The Medical Division was renamed the Healthcare Division.

1990

The production of the first Australian-manufactured refrigerator took place. The Electronic Division ceased the assembly of color televisions. The company also sold its investment in New Zealand Steel to the BHP Steel consortium, and the medical division was renamed Fisher and Paykel Healthcare.

1991

New plants were inaugurated at East Tamaki and Cleveland. The SmartDrive autowasher was introduced. International sales exceeded 30% of trading revenue. Gentle Annie was voted Product of the Year, and Fisher & Paykel received the Supplier of the Year award for the second consecutive year from the Australian Appliance Industry in Mingay’s magazine.

 

1992 – 1993

International sales increase by 54% to exceed $200m for the first time. Whitegood sales in Australia exceed 150,000 units. Launch of Fisher & Paykel brand in the European market at Domo-technica Appliance Trade Fair, Cologne, Germany.

1994 – 1995

Fisher & Paykel exports to over 80 countries. Healthcare international sales at over 90% of Healthcare turnover. Whitegood sales in New Zealand increase to 260,000 units. Elimination of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC’s) as refrigerants and blowing gases ahead of their discontinuation by 1996 under the Montreal Protocol.

1997 – 1998

DishDrawer, the unique compartmentalized drawer dishwasher launched. Fisher and Paykel Healthcare now contributing 50% of company profit and exporting 95% of its production.

1998 – 1999

Preparations began for major restructuring to split Fisher & Paykel Healthcare and Appliances. The medical division had proved increasingly profitable and by the first half of 1997-98, contributed 50% of the company profit and exported over 95% of its production. The split precipitated a re-organisation of Fisher & Paykel Appliances. Ending a 30-year-old relationship with Japanese appliance giant, Matsushita, Fisher & Paykel quit its distributorship of National, Technics, and Panasonic products, refocusing the company into three business units – Whitegoods, Healthcare and Finance, and dispensing with the previous divisionalised structure.

2000

Record group profit of $54.4m, exceeds $50m for the first time. International revenue of $551.4m exceeds 70% of total trading revenue. Healthcare revenue grows by 20.8% to exceed $140m for the first time.

2001

Fisher & Paykel Healthcare Corporation Ltd and Fisher & Paykel Appliances Holdings Ltd become 2 separately listed companies on 12 November 2001. The more concentrated direction appeared profitable for the firm. Spearheading export activities with further new product innovations such as EcoSmart washing machines and DishDrawers, by 2004, the year in which Fisher & Paykel Appliances celebrated 70 years of business, revenue from appliance exports had increased to 71 percent of total revenue.

2002

Maurice Paykel dies.

2004

In October 2004, Dynamic Cooking Systems Inc (DCS), a US-based company specializing in outdoor and indoor cooking products is acquired – making a new suite of products available in Australia and New Zealand. Global alliance entered into with appliance brand Whirlpool. One million appliances manufactured in 2004.

2006

Elba purchased from De’Longhi for EUR78 million to allow for European expansion of the brand.

2009

Fisher and Paykel ends its Australian manufacturing business with the closure of its Cleveland factory in Brisbane’s eastside as part of a strategy to concentrate its manufacturing in Thailand, Mexico, and Italy.

2012

Fisher and Paykel acquired by the Chinese-based Haier Group with a share buyout and compulsory acquisition. Fisher & Paykel Appliance Holdings Ltd is delisted from the Australian and New Zealand Stock exchanges.

2016

The closure of Fisher Paykel’s last major appliance factory in NZ is announced, completing an offshoring process begun in 2007. All appliances now manufactured in South East Asia, and China.

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Comparing the Major Appliance Brands in Australia – Electrolux, Samsung, LG, Fisher and Paykel, Haier, and Miele

As experienced purveyors and repairers of household appliances, we have delved deep into the intricate world of these machines, scrutinizing their inner workings and assessing their real-world performance. With our hands-on experience in the industry, we bring you a unique perspective on the various appliance brands that grace the homes of many Australians. In this article, we’ll embark on a journey through the maze of appliance brands available in Australia, sharing our candid thoughts on each one. From Electrolux’s Jekyll and Hyde tendencies to the sibling rivalry between Samsung and LG, the enduring quality of Fisher and Paykel, and the prestige of Miele, we’ve got the lowdown on what to expect when choosing your next home appliance. Join us as we provide valuable insights into the Australian appliance market and help you make better informed decisions.

Electrolux: The Jekyll and Hyde of Appliances

Many would be surprised to learn that various household brands actually fall under the Electrolux umbrella. Think Electrolux, AEG, Frigidaire, Westinghouse, Dishlex, Kelvinator, Chef, and Simpson. The quality of Electrolux appliances seems to be a hit-or-miss affair. You could buy one, find it to be a superb machine, and then replace it with another one that’s nothing but a disappointment.

Electrolux also tend to design proprietary parts and clips, forcing you into buying genuine replacement parts when something goes wrong. Take, for example, the capacitors in the EDP2074 7 kg condenser dryer. You need two, and generic ones would cost you a mere $4 in total. But due to the proprietary way they clip in, you have no choice but to opt for the genuine ones, which will set you back a whopping $70. To make matters worse, the real deal seem to be more prone to failures than the $4 aftermarket options.  Electrolux also seem to be resolute in their commitment to use a confusing mishmash of fasteners for no apparent reason, meaning you need way more tools than should be required to take their machines apart, which makes working on Electrolux appliances a needlessly lengthy procedure. Compare this against the 4kg Electrolux dryer we carry. It’s a shining beacon of simplicity, a functional work of art, and an absolute breeze to work on. Hands down the most reliable dryer you could buy, and in the unlikely event it has a fault, it can be fully refurbished in half an hour. Truly, one of the Electrolux gems.

Samsung and LG: Siblings from Different Mothers

Samsung and LG might seem like distant cousins at a family reunion, but in reality, they’re more like siblings from different mothers. Essentially, they use the same parts and boast a similar quality, with Samsung being the pricier, more prestigious option. If you’re not keen on spending more for nothing but a brand name, we recommend LG. The one major drawback both brands share is their habit of changing everything between different models. The shelves from one fridge won’t fit another, and they build everything as if it’s a one-of-a-kind masterpiece, making long-term parts availability a bit shaky, and its unlikely a repairer would just happen to have the right part in their van. This means another visit and more money for a repair. Many of their fridge models, especially those with dual evaporators, tend to struggle with icing issues due to repeated design mishaps. This leads to problems like noise, broken fans, cooling failures, and water leaks.

 
Should an LG or Samsung washing machine encounter issues, it’s often traced back to a fault in the main control board. It’s a relatively easy fix, but the part can be a bit pricey, and these boards can be in high demand, leading to potential backorders and lengthy waiting times for repairs. Another frequent failure point is the drain water pumps, but these can be had for $12 aftermarket and it’s a relatively easy job to replace.
If you’re on the hunt for an all-in-one washer and dryer, the LG model reigns supreme among the brands for one reason: it can dry as much as it can wash, even though it’s not officially rated for it. Most all-in-one machines suffer from a wash capacity twice that of their drying capacity, forcing you to either do half loads or empty half the washer’s contents before drying. The LG combined washer-dryers seem more capable of drying a full load, despite their label stating otherwise.

Miele: The Pricey Prestige of Appliances

Miele is often hailed as the best brand in the market, but let’s have a reality check. Beyond the prestige factor, why would you buy it? Primarily because it lasts a long time. However, with options like Whybuy, which essentially come with a lifetime warranty, greater flexibility, and a more budget-friendly price tag, Miele’s appeal is dwindling. Another reason we’re not thrilled with Miele is the array of specialized tools only available from Miele, and the hefty price they come with, if they will even let you buy them. Their appliances are nearly impossible to open without breaking them unless you have Miele’s special key tools designed to keep you out. Miele is to the Appliance world what Apple is to phones. If any issue arises, you’re left with little choice but to hire a Miele technician and bear the eye-watering Miele technician prices.

Fisher and Paykel: Enduring Under New Ownership

Since Haier took the reins in 2013, Fisher and Paykel, renowned as a high-end brand, has managed to hold its ground. On the downside, Haier has deleted many of the more affordable Fisher and Paykel fridge models, choosing instead to focus only on its prestige bigger volume fridges. Fisher and Paykel is slightly better than Electrolux but not quite on par with Miele and Asko. Initially, we feared Haier would run Fisher and Paykel into the ground, but quality has, for the most part, remained intact. There have been some experiments involving a shift from Japanese Matsushita and Panasonic compressors to more budget-friendly Chinese-built compressors, and the outcome of this change remains uncertain. Parts availability is generally excellent since Fisher and Paykel doesn’t make major changes to its models over time, a tradition which Haier seems to have stuck with. For example, you can use fridge shelves from a 1990 model as replacements for a current one. This means you have easy access to brand new and second-hand parts, and a repairer is likely to have the parts on hand in their van for replacement. Fisher and Paykel appliances can be disassembled entirely with just a Phillips head screwdriver, a flat heat screwdriver for prying, a pair of pliers, a socket set, and a hammer. However, we have a love-hate relationship with Fisher and Paykel condenser dryers. They’re easy to work on and replace parts for, but they seem to require more servicing compared to other condenser dryers. 

Haier: A Conundrum of Limited Experience

Enter Haier, a brand that we’ve encountered but with not enough hands-on experience to provide a comprehensive comparison. One notable aspect is that Haier appliances, especially their front-loading washers, bear a striking resemblance to Fisher and Paykel front-loaders, although they are constructed to lower specifications. For example – comparing a Fisher and Paykel front-loader to a Haier machine, you would see that the Haier has two shock absorbers instead of three like the Fisher and Paykel and a belt-driven drum rather than a direct drive system. Oddly, these two brands often share a common design, yet their parts are largely incompatible, suggesting a deliberate choice to maintain distinction. While Haier do tend to build to a lower spec, they also tend to use premium components of the same quality as Fisher and Paykel. We can’t offer a definitive assessment of Haier, but we could see it being a dark horse break out quality brand with its Fisher and Paykel inspired but distinct product line. Definitely a brand to watch.

Choose Wisely!

Our advice is to always check online product reviews before making a purchase. Don’t opt for a brand new model number without any online reviews to back it up. Fisher and Paykel for your fridge and washing machine is a solid choice for reliability and the ability to fix any faults that may arise once your warranty has expired. We wouldn’t recommend buying any condenser dryer due to their numerous flaws. The Electrolux vented clothes dryer, often branded as Simpson or Westinghouse, is a great option and comes highly recommended. If you’re in need of a combination washer and dryer, it can only be an LG.

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Whybuy Subscription Appliances: Appliances for Pensioners

As we age, the affordability of daily appliances can be a significant concern for seniors, especially those living on a pension. Maintaining and acquiring new appliances, like a simple washing machine for the elderly or a senior-friendly fridge, can be financially daunting. We understand these financial challenges and offers cost-effective solutions to enhance the lives of pensioners. In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of renting elderly-friendly appliances for pensioners and discuss how Whybuy supports their unique needs, ensuring that they can access essential appliances without straining their budgets.

Affordable Appliance Rentals for Seniors: Easy Access, No Financial Stress

We are committed to providing an affordable experience for senior citizens. With no complicated contracts, no upfront fees, and complimentary delivery and installation, elderly customers can access the appliances they need without any financial strain. This affordability ensures that seniors can maintain their independence without worrying about high costs.

Simple Washing Machines for the Elderly

Washing clothes poses a significant challenge for the elderly, and the type of washing machine can greatly impact their daily lives. Toploader washing machines are ideal for customers struggling with bending down, providing ease of use. However, for seniors prioritizing energy efficiency, water conservation, and cleaning effectiveness, frontloader washers prove to be a more suitable option. At Whybuy, we understand the importance of personalized solutions. We offer a range of washing machines, allowing our customers to choose the type that best suits their specific needs and preferences. 

For some elderly individuals, such as those with dementia, a simple washing machine, fridge, or dryer can be of paramount importance. Familiarity with the appliance often outweighs the need for advanced features, and this familiarity may be rooted in decades of using the same machine. Whybuy recognizes this need and we can source and maintain older appliances for our senior customers who are subscribed to a gold membership, ensuring that they can use appliances they are comfortable and familiar with. We understand that our customers may have specific requirements that go beyond our standard offerings. That’s why we offer special orders for gold members. We go the extra mile to source and provide appliances that meet unique needs, ensuring that our customers have access to appliances that best suit their individual circumstances.

Senior Friendly Fridges: Easy Access at Eye Level

For seniors, especially those with mobility challenges, refrigerator accessibility is vital. Upside down models tend to be more senior-friendly fridges, placing the essential and far more often accessed refrigerator section at eye level for easy access. Whybuy offers various affordable senior-friendly refrigerator options.

Flexibility to Adapt: Swap and Change Appliances

As life changes, so do the needs of customers. Whybuy offers the flexibility to swap or change appliances for free if the initially subscribed appliance turns out to be unsuitable, even if it turns out to be unsuitable on day 1. This adaptability ensures customers always have access to the right appliances for their evolving needs.

Whybuy - Appliances for Pensioners

Whybuy prioritizes its customers by delivering comprehensive care. We offer complete support services to address any appliance breakdowns or related concerns that might occur during the rental period. Additionally, we extend accidental damage protection, spoilage coverage for fridges, and flood protection for washers. With Whybuy, customers can enjoy peace of mind, knowing that their appliances are not just accessible but also regularly maintained and serviced as necessary.