How is TV Size Measured?
TV size is measured diagonally from one corner of the screen to the opposite corner. This measurement does not include the bezels or frame of the TV, only the screen itself. This diagonal measurement is a standard across the industry, which helps consumers compare sizes more easily.
One common misconception is that the size of the TV refers to the size of the box it comes in. This is not true. The size of a TV is measured diagonally from one corner of the screen to the opposite corner, not including the bezels or the frame of the TV. The box size is typically larger due to packaging and protective materials.
While larger TVs can enhance the viewing experience, it’s important to consider the size of your room and the distance from which you’ll be watching. A TV that is too large for your space can be overwhelming and may not provide the best picture quality from a closer distance.
A 24 inch TV, measured diagonally, typically has a screen width of about 20.9 inches and a height of about 11.7 inches. The diagonal measurement is, of course, 24 inches.
A 24 inch TV screen is approximately 53.1 cm wide and 29.6 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 61 cm.
A 32 inch TV usually has a screen width of about 27.9 inches and a height of about 15.7 inches. The diagonal measurement is 32 inches.
A 32 inch TV screen is approximately 70.9 cm wide and 39.9 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 81.3 cm.
A 40 inch TV typically has a screen width of about 34.9 inches and a height of about 19.6 inches. The diagonal measurement is 40 inches.
A 40 inch TV screen is approximately 88.6 cm wide and 49.8 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 101.6 cm.
A 42 inch TV usually has a screen width of about 36.6 inches and a height of about 20.6 inches. The diagonal measurement is 42 inches.
A 42 inch TV screen is approximately 93 cm wide and 52.3 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 106.7 cm.
A 43 inch TV typically has a screen width of about 37.5 inches and a height of about 21.1 inches. The diagonal measurement is 43 inches.
A 43 inch TV screen is approximately 95.3 cm wide and 53.6 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 109.2 cm.
A 50 inch TV usually has a screen width of about 43.6 inches and a height of about 24.5 inches. The diagonal measurement is 50 inches.
A 50 inch TV screen is approximately 110.7 cm wide and 62.2 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 127 cm.
A 55 inch TV typically has a screen width of about 47.9 inches and a height of about 27 inches. The diagonal measurement is 55 inches.
A 55 inch TV screen is approximately 121.7 cm wide and 68.6 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 139.7 cm.
A 65 inch TV usually has a screen width of about 56.7 inches and a height of about 31.9 inches. The diagonal measurement is 65 inches.
A 65 inch TV screen is approximately 144 cm wide and 81 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 165.1 cm.
A 75 inch TV typically has a screen width of about 65.4 inches and a height of about 36.8 inches. The diagonal measurement is 75 inches.
A 75 inch TV screen is approximately 166.1 cm wide and 93.6 cm tall, with a diagonal measurement of approximately 190.5 cm.
Especially in older homes, a common problem is the lack of sufficient powerpoints in laundries and bathrooms. Often, you’ll find a single outlet with one plug for both your washer and dryer, or a single outlet in the kitchen. So, what should you do? First, let’s cover some basics, and then we will come back to this problem.
In Australia (this advice is Australia specific, it may burn your house down in other countries), the standard power outlet is rated at 10 amps, which translates to a maximum power draw of 2,400 watts (240V x 10A). This is the key to understanding how to use power boards, double adaptors, and extension leads safely.
The key is to ensure that you never go over 10A of power draw. Overloading an outlet, power board, double adaptor, or extension cord can easily lead to overheating and potentially cause a fire. They are dangerous if used improperly. Power boards usually have an overload switch that triggers if the power draw is too high, but not so for the outlet, a double adaptor, or an extension lead.
For example, a typical washing machine or dryer both draw close to the full 10A limit of a single outlet. If you plugged an extension lead into the outlet and then connected both appliances with a double adaptor, you’re using double the power that the outlet, the double adaptor, and the extension lead can safely carry. There is a real risk that one of them will overheat and melt, leading to a fire or an electrical hazard. High-power appliances should always have their own dedicated outlet to avoid overloading. Where you can create a dangerous situation is when you ask a high-draw appliance to share an outlet by means of a double adaptor which has no inbuilt overload protection, and it’s all made a lot worse if an extension lead is involved. Power boards usually have an overload fuse built in and will cut the power if the draw is too high, making them somewhat safer than double adaptors, but you shouldn’t rely on the overload fuse in a $3 power board to guard against the prospect of your house burning down either.
These appliances should have their own dedicated outlet:
You can use an extension cord with these appliances, the important thing is they do not share an outlet.
These appliances can share an outlet but only with other thoughtfully selected medium draw appliances or lower power draw appliances:
These appliances draw minimal power and are unlikely to overload power boards extension leads or double adaptors when used together:
Using an extension cord or a double adaptor with a fridge is generally fine. A fridge typically draws only a quarter to a third of the rated power of a socket, though it can peak up to 2400W for a few seconds when the compressor powers on. If the compressor or its switch fails, the draw can reach 10A for several seconds every few minutes, which could potentially cause an issue if there’s another high or medium draw appliance running from a double adaptor or trigger the overload switch on a power board.
As mentioned earlier, a washer and dryer should never share an outlet as they are both high-power appliances. So, what should you do if you only have a single outlet? First and foremost, never use a double adaptor. Both appliances draw close to the rated power of the outlet (10A), so plugging them both into a double adaptor will overload both the outlet and the adaptor. Especially avoid using a double adaptor plugged into a single extension lead for a washer and dryer—this is a recipe for disaster and a great way to melt an extension lead and cause an electrical hazard or fire.
The correct way to remedy this situation is to have a licensed electrician replace the single outlet with a two-plug outlet. This upgrade is generally straightforward and is particularly recommended for power-intensive appliances like washers and dryers. Upgrading ensures that each appliance can operate independently without overloading the system.
Proving that nothing is ever straightforward and easy to explain, a toploader washer and heat pump dryer breaks the above advice – maybe. You could probably get away with plugging a heat pump dryer and toploader washer combo into a single lead with a power board or even a double adaptor and using them at the same time. A top loading washer (most of which have no heating capabilities and draw heat from the hot water service) coupled with a heat pump dryer (which uses a compressor to generate heat, not a heating element) might just stay under the 10A socket and lead limit. So too is it likely that a frontloader washer set to wash on cold paired with a heat pump dryer would be likely to draw less than 10A. However, it would be close, and I recommend using a power board for added peace of mind, not a double adaptor. To be extra safe, use a plug-in wall power meter to check the washer’s power draw while on full speed spin and the dryer while it’s turning with the compressor running.
While it is technically possible to use extension leads, double adaptors, or power boards with high-demand appliances like washing machines, clothes dryers, and fridges, it comes with significant risks. The primary concern is ensuring that the total power draw does not exceed the 10 amp limit of the outlet and any extension leads, power boards or double adpaters you’ve plugged into it. Overloading can easily lead to overheating, electrical hazards, or even fires.
For safety and optimal performance, high-power appliances should always have their own dedicated outlets. You can use an extension lead to connect a high powered appliance to an outlet, as long as it has its own outlet. If this isn’t feasible, a power board with overload protection is the next best option, but it should never be used to power multiple high-draw appliances simultaneously. Always be cautious and consider consulting with a licensed electrician to upgrade your home’s electrical system to meet the demands of modern appliances safely.
Remember, the convenience of using these devices should never come at the expense of safety. By understanding the electrical load limits and using power boards with built-in safety features, you can make informed decisions to protect your home and family from potential hazards.
Soap nuts, also known as soapberries, are the fruit of the Sapindus mukorossi tree, commonly found in India and Nepal. The fruit contains saponin, a natural surfactant that has been used for centuries as a cleaning agent. When soaked in water, soap nuts release saponin, creating a soapy solution that can clean clothes. Soap nuts were a valuable resource in regions where they grew naturally. They were used not only for laundry but also for cleaning jewelry and even as a natural remedy for certain skin conditions.
Traditionally, soap nuts were used to wash clothes. Here’s how it was typically done:
Recent studies testing the cleaning power of soap nuts have been less than encouraging. It seems that the effectiveness of soap nuts in these traditional contexts does not translate to the expectations and demands of modern laundry. Every scientific study we found on the topic indicated that soap nuts performed the same or worse than water.
On the one hand, soap nuts have been used as a traditional laundry staple; on the other, the science says no. Here’s what we think is happening, and it’s all down to context. If you are handwashing your clothes in the Himalayan foothills by a river with fresh soap nuts, they’re likely to help with washing. However, if you’re throwing soap nuts into a muslin bag and pressing go on your washer, it’s not going to work well for a few reasons.
Firstly, as we touched on earlier, soap nuts need time to soak to release their saponin. If you haven’t picked them fresh on your way to the river to do your washing, it’s probably a good guess that your soap nuts, which have come halfway across the world via a container ship are not fresh. Their quality will be degraded. You need to soak them for at least 30 minutes to give them their best chance. Many washing machines do have a soak option you could use for this purpose. Next—the hotter the water, the better—up to 90 degrees Celsius. More saponin is released in hotter water. However, using hot water contradicts the environmental benefits supposed by using soap nuts, unless one has access to environmentally friendly heating methods like solar or heatpump hot water systems.
If you’re not doing this vital preparation and just want to conveniently throw the soap nuts into your washer and press go on a short cold wash, soap nuts might give you a worse result than if you used water alone. Saponin can make water a less effective cleaner in two ways:
Simply throwing soap nuts in a muslin bag and popping it in the washer is unlikely to get a result better than just washing with water, and may even yield a worse result, as Choice demonstrated in their results. Usually, this is how soap nuts are marketed as well—a convenient and easy alternative to laundry detergent. This is why in scientific studies, that appears to be what has taken place—the soap nuts are popped in a muslin bag and tossed in the washer. Complaints from the soap nut industry about unfair testing conditions are valid—but the industry has also reaped what it has sowed. You can’t on the one hand provide a set of instructions to make soap nuts appear as convenient and easy to use as laundry detergent, and then cry foul when studies following those instructions yield poor results. Further studies are needed to determine the efficacy of soap nuts when prepared correctly, but even so, their performance is unlikely to approach that of modern detergents—and at best—be a slight improvement when compared to water only.
The relatively poor washing performance of soap nuts is further complicated by their actual environmental impact. Soap nuts are biodegradable, chemical-free, and renewable, making them an appealing option for those seeking environmentally friendly alternatives. However, these benefits are significantly undermined by the fact that they are imported from regions like India and Nepal, involving considerable product miles and high embodied energy.
Moreover, the rising demand for soap nuts in Western markets can adversely affect the local economies and ecosystems in the regions where they are harvested. Often, this leads locals to switch to modern detergents, now cheaper than soap nuts as a result of the increased demand. Consequently, the use of soap nuts in the West has a high risk of shifting the environmental burden of detergent use to areas likely lacking support from robust sanitation and sewage systems, overall exacerbating the impact of detergent use.
If all this wasn’t enough, soap nuts pose a risk as an environmental weed in many parts of the world. A single viable seed escaping into a non-native ecosystem can have severe ecological repercussions. Given these considerations, the environmental benefits of using soap nuts are extremely debatable. Their efficacy in washing clothes remains uncertain, with no solid scientific evidence supporting their performance. On balance, the purported environmental advantages of soap nuts are questionable, and they probably don’t represent a better alternative to traditional detergents.
The silver lining is for those of you who have been using soap nuts all along and have been happy with the results. You’ve demonstrated to yourself that washing with effectively no detergent is good enough to clean your clothes. Not only do you not need detergent much of the time, but neither do you need soap nuts! Don’t believe me? Try a blind test at home and have someone else do one load of laundry with soap nuts, and one load with water only—you won’t be able to tell the difference!
While soap nuts are a fascinating natural product with historical significance, their effectiveness as a modern laundry detergent alternative is unproven and likely limited at best. The complications around their sourcing, transportation as well as exporting pollution in a context where no scientific study has found them to be a viable alternative to laundry detergent is more than enough to bring into question their cleaning potential in a modern washing machine. The bright ray of sustainability sunshine in this exploration is that there is an eco friendly alternative – just wash with water only, and use washing detergent sparingly where water alone can’t do the job!
Whether you can put plastic in the microwave largely depends on the resin identification code marked on them. These are the numbered symbols found on plastic items, usually on the bottom.
Caution with Black Plastics: Recent research has found high levels of toxic, cancer causing flame retardants in black plastic food items, and toys. These chemicals get into these products through the innapropriate recycling of eWaste. It’s best to avoid not only microwaving black plastic, but neither to eat off it at all.
Most other plastics fall into a risky category when it comes to microwaving and are best avoided.
Plastic 1, or PETE (Polyethylene Terephthalate), is commonly used in the manufacturing of soft drink bottles and cooking oil containers. It is important to differentiate between CPET and APET:
Examples: Clear PET bottles are typically APET, while some frozen dinner trays and take-out containers are made of CPET.
Number 2 plastic is not microwave safe. Plastic 2, HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene), is used for its strength and resistance to moisture. HDPE is not typically recommended for microwave use as it can melt or deform.
Examples: Milk jugs, laundry detergent bottles.
Plastic 3, PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride), contains phthalates which can leach into food upon heating. It is perhaps the least safe plastic to microwave easily leaching BPA and phthalates. Beware of commercial cling film which is often still made with PVC.
Examples: Food wrap, cooking oil bottles, and plumbing materials.
It depends on the type of plastic used. If the wrap is made from polyethylene (PE), it’s typically microwave-safe, as long as it doesn’t directly touch the food. But if the wrap is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), it’s a different story – PVC can release harmful chemicals when heated, so it’s not safe for microwaving. PVC is still commonly found in commercial plastic wrap.
If there’s no label on the plastic wrap you’re using or if you’ve received food wrapped in cling film, it’s best to remove the wrap before microwaving and use a microwave-safe container instead.
Number 4 plastic is sort of, not really, microwave safe. Plastic 4, LDPE (Low-Density Polyethylene), is often used in grocery bags and most cling film you would find available at your supermarket and PVC alternatives. While it is safer than some other plastics, it is not typically recommended for microwave use as it can melt at higher temperatures. It could better be described as microwave resistant rather than microwave safe.
Examples: Bread bags, freezer bags, PVC free cling wrap.
Number 5 plastic is microwave safe. Polypropylene, marked as Plastic 5, is the only inherently microwave safe plastic. It has a high heat tolerance and does not melt or leach chemicals easily under microwave conditions.
Examples: Yogurt containers, microwaveable meal trays, reusable microwave containers, single use takeaway containers.
Number 6 plastic is not microwave safe. Plastic 6, PS (Polystyrene), is commonly used in disposable coffee cups and take-out food containers. It can leach styrene’s when heated, a possible carcinogen. However, it is important to note that there are specially formulated types of polystyrene that are engineered to withstand higher temperatures and can be labelled microwave safe. Typical polystyrene containers, like those used for take-out food or coffee cups, are generally not recommended for microwave use unless explicitly labelled as microwave safe.
Examples: Disposable coffee cups, take-out food containers.
Number 7 plastic is not microwave safe. Plastic 7 is a catch all category for various types of plastics including bioplastics which do not fit into the other six categories, including bioplastics and polycarbonate. Many of these, especially polycarbonate, can leach BPA when heated and are not recommended for microwave use.
Examples: Some reusable water bottles, certain food containers.
Choosing the right type of plastic for microwave use can prevent health risks and maintain food safety. When in doubt, look for the microwave-safe symbol or opt for glass or ceramic containers, which are safer and do not pose the risks associated with microwaving plastics.
Perhaps the most significant risk associated with using microwave ovens is uneven cooking. Microwaves aren’t powerful enough to penetrate deeply into denser foods. As a result, only the outer layers are heated directly by the microwaves, with the inner warmth being achieved slowly through conduction. This can lead to cold spots in the food, particularly in the centre, where bacteria like Salmonella and E. coli can survive if the food isn’t heated through. This is a particular concern with dense, high-protein foods like poultry, eggs, and certain meats, where ensuring thorough cooking is vital in preventing food poisoning.
The danger of uneven heating extends to heating liquids, such as baby formula. The risk of scalding is particularly high with infants, as hot spots in the liquid can cause burns if the formula is not mixed well and tested before feeding. This potential for direct physical harm underlines why health professionals recommend against using microwaves for heating baby bottles or formula. The consequences of getting it wrong, especially with tired or distracted parents, can be lethal.
To combat uneven heating, a simple practice is to pause the microwave halfway through the cooking time to stir the food, rotate the dish, or even rearrange the items within the microwave. Additionally, allowing the food to stand for a few minutes after microwaving helps the heat distribute more evenly, as it naturally flows from hotter areas to cooler ones. This practice helps to ensures safer food consumption while also enhancing the food’s overall texture and taste.
Microwaving plastics is a cause for real concern – if not overblown. Heating food in some or even all plastics can be risky. The risks associated with using certain plastics in the microwave mainly revolves around chemicals potentially leached into food, such as BPA (Bisphenol A), styrenes and phthalates.
BPA (Bisphenol A), styrenes and phthalates are chemicals found in some plastics, like polycarbonate and PVC, which can leach into food when heated. These substances are known endocrine disruptors and carcinogens, mimicking or interfering with the body’s hormones. While typically the amount of these chemicals leaching from plastics is very small – often in quantities considered safe by regulatory bodies – the long-term effects of continuous exposure are still under scrutiny.
Fortunately, the likelihood of encountering harmful plastics like PVC or polycarbonate in microwave use is low – with the exception of polystyrene takeaway containers and commercially common PVC cling film. Most microwave safe containers – even single use takeaway containers – are made from polypropylene (PP), labelled with a resin code #5. This type of plastic is the only inherently microwave safe plastic, is unlikely to contain BPA or phthalates, and is chosen for its heat stability and safety properties. While polypropylene is generally microwave safe, the best practice is to use containers that are explicitly labelled as microwave safe. This label is a manufacturers assurance that the product can withstand microwave heat without degrading and that it does not contain or release harmful chemicals. This is especially important if you wish to ensure against any potential, albeit unlikely, contamination from BPA or phthalates. As well as polypropylene containers most meat is packaged in PET with a resin code of #1 which is not microwave safe, and clingfilm is usually low density polyethylene – resin code # which is closer to microwave resistant than microwave safe. Regardless, these plastics are extremely unlikely to contain phthalates or BPA, though are more likely to melt. Check out our full guide How to Know if Plastic is Microwave Safe for a more detailed guide.
A growing, and valid concern is the potential shedding of microplastics from plastic containers when microwaved, particularly from older or degraded containers. The health implications of ingesting microplastics are still being studied – they may carry toxins and accumulate in the body over time. If the potential risks associated with plastics are a concern for you, consider investing in microwave safe glass containers. Glass is very inert and poses no risks of chemical leaching or microplastic shedding. Glass can provide peace of mind to those seeking the safest microwaving option.
One enduring myth is that microwaves produce radiation that makes food radioactive, and which can and often does leak out of the microwave irradiating anyone nearby as well. Microwaves don’t change the chemical structure of food to make it radioactive. Microwaves use non-ionizing radiation, which does not have enough energy to change the chemical structure of food components or make them radioactive. This type of radiation is similar to radio waves or the light waves from your table lamp, and is far removed from ionizing radiation (such as X-rays and gamma rays). To make something radioactive, the radiation it is bathed in must be powerful enough to knock particles out of its atoms. Non-ionizing radiation, like visible light, infrared, and microwaves, does not have enough energy to remove tightly bound electrons from atoms or molecules and cannot make materials radioactive.
It’s true, microwave radiation can be dangerous. After all, the very principle of a microwave oven is to use this radiation to heat food quickly and efficiently. The concern though is not about radioactivity, but about a microwave ovens potential to cause burns in the same way as a direct flame can. On face value, concerns about this radiation leaking might seem reasonable. An analogy illustrates why it is not: a fire in a fireplace provides warmth and comfort, but sticking your head into it is likely to be lethal. Similarly, while a microwave oven is generally safe when used correctly, improper use—like tampering with its safety mechanisms—can be hazardous. The risk microwave radiation does pose is not a concern of radioactivity, rather in their ability to burn the same way a fire might. A stove poses a greater hazard.
Microwave are safe in that they are engineered with multiple safety features to prevent improper use, as well as to prevent significant radiation leakage. The small amount that might escape, which can sometimes interfere with Wi-Fi signals (which also uses microwave radiation) – while annoying – is harmless. Regulations ensure that the level of microwave leakage is far below that which could cause harm to humans. With over 50 years of widespread use and a strong safety record, it’s safe to say that microwaves are safe, when used as intended.
Yes – microwave cooking will remove nutrients from food. However, microwave cooking preserves nutrients better than most other conventional cooking methods. Water soluble vitamins like vitamin C and some B vitamins are particularly vulnerable to high heat and long cooking times. Since microwaving usually requires less time and heats the food up for a shorter period, it can help retain these heat sensitive nutrients more effectively. Microwaving broccoli, preserves its vitamin C and antioxidant content more than steaming or boiling for example. Boiling vegetables on the stovetop will cause some of their nutrients to leach into the cooking water, which is usually discarded. Microwaving vegetables usually uses less water and reduces this nutrient loss. Furthermore, the quicker cooking time in a microwave can help preserve antioxidants and vitamins that degrade or oxidise over prolonged exposure to heat
While all cooking can diminish some nutrients, it transforms food in several beneficial ways. It enhances digestibility, improves the availability of certain nutrients, eliminates harmful microorganisms, and reduces compounds that inhibit nutrient absorption. Consequently, despite the varying effects of different cooking methods on nutrient levels, the overall benefits of cooking, including microwave use, significantly enhance our diet by making food safer, more digestible, and generally more nutritious.
This pervasive myth largely stems from two widely discredited “studies” that have fueled misconceptions about microwave cooking.
Actually, just a letter to the editor, and not a study. The author, Lubec, microwaved baby formula for 10 minutes and found that some amino acids in the formula had been converted to cis-3 hydroxyproline, cis-4 hydroxyproline, and D-proline amino acids which were thought to be possibly toxic at the time. Lubec failed to disclose crucial experimental details like microwave power and the temperature reached. He later admitted that the formula had been placed in a pressure vessel and heated to an extreme 175°C. Moreover, it’s since been proven cis-3 hydroxyproline, and cis-4 hydroxyproline are both a part of normal metabolic processes in humans, particularly in the synthesis and maintenance of collagen, and that D-proline isn’t toxic either and is found abundantly in commercial dairy products. Good work Lubec – If you seal formula in a pressure vessel and microwave it for 10 minutes to 175°C, it will convert some amino acids to slightly different ones that carry no danger.
This tabloid style report authored by Hertel and Blanc in Journal Franz Weber (Issue 19), lacked peer review and is a publication far from the scientific mainstream. It involved only eight volunteers consuming microwaved food and aimed to assess various blood markers. Not only was the sample size too small to draw any significant conclusions, but the claims made were also alarmingly sensational stating that “… microwave ovens are more harmful than the Dachau gas chambers…” and “… it is certain that you will die from cancer”. The data showed that all blood analysis results fell within normal variation ranges. One of the authors of the paper (Blanc) later stated “I totally dissociate myself from the … experiment carried out in 1989, which was published without my consent by the co-author of the study… The results obtained do not in any circumstances justify drawing any conclusions as to the harmful effects of food treated with microwaves”.
While the harmful effects of microwave cooking are entirely discredited, some foods when cooked at high temperatures, such as those in baking, frying, roasting, and grilling, can produce suspected and known carcinogens: acrylamide, heterocyclic amines (HCAs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).
Acylamide is most likely to form when starchy foods like potatoes or bread, are cooked at high temperatures through baking, frying, roasting, or grilling until browned or burnt. You don’t find acrylamide in uncooked, boiled, or microwaved food. Acrylamide is recognised by health authorities including the World Health Organization and the International Agency for Research on Cancer as a potential human carcinogen. This concern is based on studies conducted in laboratory animals, showing that high levels of acrylamide can cause cancer in these animals. However, it’s important to note that the levels of acrylamide in food are much lower than those used in these studies, and the direct link to cancer in humans is still not conclusively proven. To minimise acrylamide formation, cook food until it goes yellow, not brown or black, though if you cook at too low a temperature you are less likely to kill off bacteria, so there is more risk of food poisoning.
Besides acrylamide, cooking meats at high temperatures can lead to the formation of heterocyclic amines (HCAs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are chemicals found to increase cancer risk in animals and potentially in humans. HCAs are formed when meats like beef, poultry, and fish are cooked at high temperatures, especially during methods that involve direct contact with an open flame or a hot metal surface, such as grilling or pan-frying. These compounds develop as a reaction between amino acids and creatine within the muscle meats under intense heat. PAHs are produced when fat and juices from the meat drip onto the heat source, creating smoke. This smoke envelops the meat and deposits PAHs onto its surface.
Both HCAs and PAHs have been identified as potentially carcinogenic to humans. Studies in rats have shown that exposure to these compounds can cause various types of cancers, including stomach, colon, and breast cancer. While translating these results directly to human risk is complex, there is enough evidence to suggest a potential increase in cancer risk associated with consistent consumption of meats cooked by high-temperature methods.
Microwave cooking, in contrast typically does not reach the temperatures necessary to produce acrylamide HCAs and PAHs. Not only does microwaving help in retaining more nutrients by reducing cooking time, but it also avoids the formation of harmful chemicals that are associated with other cooking methods. While each cooking method has its pros and cons, microwave cooking stands out for both its efficiency in nutrient retention and its lower risk of generating food-related carcinogens, making it a sound choice for health-conscious individuals.
Microwave ovens heat food safely by energising water molecules in the food placed inside. When you try to microwave metal alone, because it contains no water, it reflects the microwaves rather than absorbing them like food does. In fact, microwaving metal without any food is essentially the same as running the microwave empty, which will also cause arcing and sparks. The reflected microwaves will “build up” leading to sparks or arcs, akin to mini lightning. This arcing can damage the microwave’s interior and be a fire hazard. If you only put a metal spoon in a microwave it will definitely spark, but if the metal spoon is in a bowl of soup, it probably won’t because the microwaves have somewhere else to go once reflected by the spoon – into the soup. However, the spoon can still get very hot, posing a burn risk similar to a spoon left in a pot on the stove.
Yes. You can put metal in a microwave so long as the metal doesn’t have sharp points that are close to one another that can create an arc. Think the tines of a fork, a serrated knife, or crumpled foil. Thicker smoother pieces of metal are generally safe inside a microwave. A spoon, metal cup, metal plate or even metal microwave oven racks are perfectly fine because everything is smooth and rounded off. Foil can be used carefully, as long as it’s not crumpled, and Sharp even recommends using foil to shield parts of food to avoid overcooking in their microwaves. LG on the other hand, is more cautious with a strict no-metal policy in their microwaves.
In some cases, food manufacturers cleverly incorporate metal into microwavable packaging to enhance the cooking process. Microwave pizzas often sit atop foil-lined cardboard, which helps the base become crispy. Microwavable soups often come with a thin metallic layer beneath a non-metallic lid to evenly brown the top layer of the soup. Some frozen dinners use metallic film inside the box to facilitate even heating, ensuring the food cooks thoroughly and evenly. These strategies help direct the heat properly, improving the microwaving experience by ensuring better browning or crisping of the food.
Generally, it’s best to avoid metal in the microwave unless following specific manufacturer instructions or using microwave-safe metal objects or packaging. Personally, I’ve microwaved metal in my LG microwave without issues. I find it inconvenient to remove cutlery before reheating food, as there’s often nowhere to put it down without it getting dirty. Even though a knife and fork is precisely the type of thing you’re told not to put in a microwave, leaving it on a plate while reheating my food has never caused an issue for me.
Lint buildup is the most common culprit of a burning smell coming from your dryer. Lint burning smells like burning hair, but a rubber belt burning will smell the same. Over time, lint can bypass the lint filter and accumulate within the dryer’s ducts. The older your dryer, the more likely it is that significant lint has built up. Occasionally, a piece of this accumulated lint may break off and fall into the heater, where it burns up. Typically, these pieces are so small that you might not even notice them. If you’ve recently taken a dryer out of storage and noticed a burning smell upon first use, this is fairly normal. Lint that has dislodged over time or due to movement may now be passing through the heater.
Prevention is the best approach here. Regular maintenance of your lint filter can significantly slow down the buildup of lint, though some accumulation is inevitable. The more lint that passes the filter, the more you will find in the heater eventually.
The motor run capacitor in your dryer is essential for helping the motor start and operate smoothly. To oversimplify its role – and not entirely accurately – you can think of it as a rechargeable battery. This “battery” doesn’t power the motor for extended periods but is crucial for delivering the quick burst of energy the motor needs to kickstart. Over time, similar to a rechargeable battery, the capacitor loses its capacity to hold a charge. If the charge becomes too weak, the motor that turns the drum will struggle to start turning. You might find yourself manually helping the dryer start by giving the drum a push before quickly closing the door. As the capacitor’s condition worsens, the drum might not turn at all, even when empty. In such cases, attempting to start the dryer might result in a buzzing noise from the motor area, but no physical movement – a clear indication that the capacitor might need attention or replacement. Usually when a capacitor is failing it shows no outward signs but if it fails catastrophically and blows a hole out its side or top, usually accompanied by smoke and a burning smell, and often tripping the safety switch as it shorts out internally. Smoke from a burning capacitor will usually smell acrid – like plastic burning. If the drum is not turning its also possible that other components are overheating like the heater or motor which is contributing to a burning smell.
After capacitor problems, issues with the belt and guide wheel are the next most common cause of a burning smell in dryers. These components are critical for the smooth operation of the dryer, and both can be accessed near the motor capacitors, allowing for convenient inspection.
The guide wheel, typically made of plastic with a metal core, supports and guides the dryer belt as it rotates the drum. It helps maintain the belt’s alignment and tension, ensuring efficient movement. Over time, wear and tear or manufacturing defects can cause the guide wheel to deteriorate; it might even begin to melt if the friction becomes too great. This deterioration can cause the belt to misalign, fray, and eventually burn, leading to a noticeable burning smell.
Depending on the dryer model replacing the belt and guide wheel can vary in complexity. In many vented dryers, the process is straightforward, but in other models, particularly condenser dryers and heatpumps it may involve removing the motor, and feeding the belt between the drum and the housing without damaging it, a skill that is learned with practice.
There are many other potential sources of a burning smell in a clothes dryer, but the above will cover off 95% of them. The other 5% are many and varied but will cover things like:
If your burning smell is caused by one of the above it is a more specific problem that requires more specific advice tailored to your model. They are also more difficult to identify and diagnose, but if you can see a sooty burn mark you’re probably in the right place!
Cheap, cheerful, the cornerstone of the traditional Aussie laundry. With few parts and a tried and true design that hasn’t really changed in 50 years they are pretty bulletproof in terms of reliability and the first choice dryers for most households. If something does go wrong it’s usually cheap and easy to fix as long as you’ve bought from a well known brand that stocks parts. They work by taking in air from the room, heating it, and then blowing it through the clothes. The moist air is then meant to be vented outside which is where they derive their name. Vented dryer. In Australia we all seem to have universally decided yeah, nah, and cracked a window or turned on an exhaust fan. While this is generally passable, this approach can make a room very hot and humid, especially if its winter and you’ve decided not to crack that window. Properly venting a vented dryer means the room shouldn’t get hot or humid at all. But apparently, that’s just not how we roll!
Roughly double the price of a vented dryer. These dryers use a closed-loop system that continually recycles the same air. Moisture is condensed into water when the humid dryer air passes through a heat exchanger cooled by air from the room. This method is more flexible in terms of placement since external venting is not needed, though it will still generate significant heat in the room. Their closed loop designs also minimises the amount of lint that escapes into the air and settles around your laundry room.
Double to triple the price of a vented dryer. Heat pump dryers work by extracting moisture from the air at a relatively lower temperature compared to traditional dryers, resulting in better fabric care and much less energy use, but take around twice the time to dry the same amount of clothes. They are the most energy efficient to operate by far, using about half to a third the power of vented or condenser dryers. They operate within a completely closed system, minimising heat escape. Like with condenser dryers their closed loop designs also minimises the amount of lint that escapes, but are slightly better because there is no interaction with the external air at all. They will heat their surroundings the least out of all dryers. They come with the same warning as condenser dryers but with an additional layer of complexity. They are more likely to have a fault than a condenser dryer, and much more likely than a vented dryer, and if they do, it’ll be expensive. When buying a condenser or heat pump dryer it is worth considering purchasing an extended warranty.
My hot tip – There is a heat pump dryer you can often get for around $600 on special. Purchasing a heat pump dryer at the price of some vented models is unbeatable value. It will be branded Akai, Solt, Kogan, Esatto, Stirling, Teka, or even something else. It can be hard to tell exactly who has manufactured these cheap Chinese dryers but my research has led me to Smad and Midea. It seems like there might be a few manufacturers who are going to a big centralised parts bin and mixing and matching controllers and doors and drums. I’ve had one and it worked just as well as a Fisher and Paykel heatpump dryer, and even had some completely unadvertised albeit limited wifi smart functionality. The only noticeable difference that I noticed was that it sounded like a truck was idling in my laundry. Not while I was in the laundry, but when outside the laundry. Imagine you’re standing beside a brick wall, and on the other side is an idling truck. That’s what it sounded like, when outside the laundry. This shouldn’t be a deal breaker for most, especially in larger spaces where noise is less of an issue, but it’s something to consider if you live in a small apartment as I do.
The main downside to my mind is that these dryers are not designed to be easily taken apart for repairs – and good luck sourcing spare parts – fuelling our throwaway culture. But – the energy savings over the life of the dryer could outweigh the environmental impact of its production and the environmental damage when the high global warming potential r134a refrigerant in these machines is illegally, but inevitably released to atmosphere during scrapping. On the whole, it’s got my vote, but its a conflicted vote – It will probably save you money but the throwaway nature of the product coupled with the poor choice of refrigerant makes its environmental credentials questionable.
A combined washer dryer will essentially be a washing machine first, with a compromised condenser dryer added as an afterthought. In my experience they are incredibly slow at drying clothes, but they are unbeatable for quiet operation, minimising lint escape, and with minimal heat escape the room stays nice and cool too. They flush the lint away with water meaning no lint traps, and they operate a completely closed system as with a heatpump dryer. I found they struggle with sheets and towels, and you shouldn’t expect to get through two small loads per day. They are the ultimate in convenience if you aren’t in any hurry. Check out our full review of the Fisher and Paykel combo washer and dryer here.
Gas clothes dryers are becoming increasingly rare in Australian homes but remain prevalent in laundromats and industrial settings. Using natural gas as a fuel, they can produce significantly more heat than electric dryers because they are not constrained by the maximum capacity of wall outlets. This allows them to dry clothes quicker than any other dryer type. Their use is tempered by several factors: they cost about four times as much as vented electric dryers, require complex installations carried out by a plumber, including proper venting and gas lines, and face decreasing popularity due to a broader shift towards electric appliances.
Opting for a dryer with sensor drying technology is far more important than its labelled capacity. Models with simple timers require users to estimate how long their clothes need to dry, which is inefficient and will always lead to either under dried or over dried clothes. Dryers equipped with sensor technology automatically measure the moisture level in the clothes and adjust the drying time accordingly. This not only saves time but also enhances efficiency, allowing you to process more laundry in less time with less effort. A smaller dryer with sensor drying will outperform a larger model without it, offering quicker and more energy-efficient operation.
When it comes to choosing a clothes dryer, size doesn’t always equate to speed. Despite common beliefs, the capacity of a dryer doesn’t directly influence how quickly it can dry clothes. Electric heating elements, the primary component in vented and condenser dryers, are power-intensive yet straightforward and inexpensive for manufacturers to produce. They have remained largely unchanged for a century. Whether you opt for a 4 kg, 8 kg, or even a 20 kg dryer, the cost saving to a manufacturer to use a lower power heater in place of a higher power component would be as close to nothing as makes no difference.
All vented and condenser dryers use heaters that tap out at the maximum power that Australian outlets can provide before no longer being guaranteed not to catch ablaze – 10A at 240V. Most of this power is consumed by the heating element, with only a minimal amount reserved for the motor and even less for controls and lighting. In practice, an 8 kg dryer does not usually have a more powerful heater than a 4 kg model. Counterintuitively, it might have a slightly less powerful heater to accommodate a more powerful motor needed to turn the larger, heavier drum while remaining within the 10A power outlet limit. Therefore, if both an 8 kg dryer and a 4 kg dryer have similar heating elements, the drying time per kilogram of clothing remains the same – everything else remaining the same. This means if you’re drying an 8 kg load, a 4 kg dryer could potentially finish in the same amount of time if you’re attentive and ready to quickly reload a second cycle after the first.
There are some advantages to consider with larger models. More powerful fans and larger drums in bigger dryers improve airflow and allow more clothes to be heated at once, which can result in more efficient heat use and less loss to the surrounding environment. Everything considered, doubling your dryer’s capacity only yields a marginal speed increase when compared to running two consecutive loads in a dryer half the size, and only uses slightly more power.
The true benefit of a larger dryer isn’t speed—it’s convenience. The capacity to dry larger loads at once reduces the frequency of loads, which can be a significant advantage. The drawback with smaller capacity machines surfaces when you miss the end of a cycle or are away, delaying the process of reloading and starting a new cycle.
Another important consideration is the size of the biggest item you will want to dry. A 4 kg dryer may struggle with large items like super king doona covers, as stuffing such bulky items will hinder air circulation, significantly prolonging drying times. Moreover, it may be practical to match the capacity of your dryer with that of your washer, particularly if you tend to use your machine to capacity. If your washer is an 8 kg model, a similarly sized dryer ensures that you can transfer the entire load directly for drying, enhancing convenience.
If you’re consistently running a 4 kg dryer back to back without catching up on your drying needs, upgrading to an 8kg dryer probably won’t help much – you need a second dryer, not a bigger replacement. In such cases, you probably need a second dryer rather than simply a larger one. Remember an 8 kg dryer has the same heater as a 4kg, capacity is just about convenience.
Heat pump dryers stand out from vented and condenser dryers due to their ability to recapture heat, which significantly enhances their energy efficiency. Typically, these dryers draw about 3A or less, meaning the wall socket isn’t a limiting factor for their power usage. One might consider doubling the compressor’s power to speed up the drying process, aiming to match the speed of traditional dryers. However, this approach would not be effective since heat pump dryers operate at relatively lower temperatures to extract moisture, which is gentler on fabrics and uses less energy. Doubling the compressor’s power would only raise the internal temperature, risking damage to delicate fabrics and diminishing the dryer’s efficiency in moisture extraction. This would undermine the careful balance of energy efficiency and fabric care that heat pump dryers are known for.
This approach though, while 2-3 times as efficient – per kilogram of clothes dried – as a conventional dryer, takes double the time. For example, if you’re using a 4 kg dryer nonstop and are considering switching to an 8 kg heat pump dryer to manage the workload, it’s going to make your problem much, much, worse. A heatpump dryer will take the same amount of time to dry 1kg of clothes as the 4kg vented dryer could dry 2kg in. I’m sure you can see the issue. However for most people this isn’t an issue – If your dryer use is limited to just once or twice a day, a heat pump dryer is an economic and environmentally friendly upgrade.
Choosing the right dryer involves more than just considering the labelled capacity and bells and whistles; it’s about understanding the nuances of different dryer types and how they align with your lifestyle and laundry needs. Vented, condenser, and heat pump dryers each offer distinct advantages and drawbacks, from energy efficiency to repair costs and placement flexibility. By recognizing the real benefits of each type and considering aspects like capacity and drying time relative to your specific needs, you can make a well-informed decision that goes beyond the conventional sales pitch. Ultimately, the best dryer for you is one that balances performance, convenience, and energy consumption, ensuring that your laundry routine is as efficient and effective as possible.
Choosing the right fridge size can be difficult but for many it needn’t be. For homeowners, or those who are unlikely to move anytime soon, go with the largest fridge that will fit in your space. This strategy leverages the laws of physics – the square-cube rule – larger fridges use space more efficiently and generally consume only slightly more energy than their smaller counterparts. For instance, a standard 100L bar fridge might use about 300 kWh per year, while a 500L+ fridge could use around 500 kWh annually. This small difference in energy use is offset by a significant increase in storage capacity, and only costing $20-$30 more a year to run.
When measuring the space for your fridge don’t fall into the trap of overestimating your space. A common mistake is forgetting to account for skirting boards or door hinges. Your fridge shouldn’t fit snug into the cavity at any rate. You should have at least 20mm of space either side of it to run at its most efficient – modern fridges dump heat removed from inside the fridge on the sides and back of the machine. If you jam your fridge into the space it will probably run well, though might struggle on really hot days. It will also run less efficiently and shorten the compressors life. Leave a bit of room on either side for measuring mistakes and efficiency.
While the largest fridge that fits into your kitchen might be the ideal choice for long-term homeowners, it’s important to consider your lifestyle fully. For families or individuals who plan to stay in one place for many years, a larger fridge ensures you have ample space to meet growing needs and changes in your habits without needing to buy a second unit. This not only maximizes efficiency and storage but also minimizes power bills and environmental impact by reducing carbon emissions.
But for frequent movers the advice is more nuanced. A large fridge, especially models that are difficult to manoeuvre through narrow doorways or require disassembly, can become a liability. Big fridges are harder to move, more susceptible to damage during transport, and may not fit in your new space, leading to potentially costly losses. Additionally, the logistics and potential wear from frequently moving a large, cumbersome appliance might negate the benefits of having a bigger fridge. For renters and frequent movers, a smaller lighter fridge often makes more practical sense. For those looking to get the easiest fridge to move they should also bear in mind the general rule of thumb for fridge sizing:
While the number of people in your home provides a basic guideline, your personal habits are equally crucial when choosing a fridge size. Do you buy in bulk, or frequently cook large meals that require storage? If so, a larger fridge will serve you better. Conversely, smaller households with less intensive storage needs might initially consider a compact model adequate. Remember, opting for a larger fridge might be more beneficial in the long run if your living situation is stable.
Top Freezer: Traditional, efficient and budget friendly, best for minimal freezer use.
Bottom Freezer (Upside Down): Provide easy access to fridge contents at eye level, and typically offer much more usable space per litre in the freezer section because of their drawer design. This design allows for better organization and easier access to frozen items, making it a practical choice for those who utilize their freezer frequently. My personal favourite.
Side-by-Side: Equal fridge-freezer space spread across all levels but generally less energy-efficient. A common complaint among users is the narrowness of the compartments, which can make storing larger items, like pizza boxes or wide platters, impossible.
Quad Door: Stylish and flexible but more expensive.
French Door: Essentially a wider version of an upside down fridge, featuring two doors for the refrigerator compartment at the top. While currently in vogue, personally I find these models to be more cumbersome as you often need to open both doors to find what you want, unless you remember where everything is. It’s not a big thing, but it is an extra needless step to go through multiple times a day. Moreover, the French door design tends to be more complex and is consequently prone to more faults compared to standard upside down fridges.
Chest Freezer: Highly efficient and reliable for long-term storage.
Bar Fridge/Freezer: Compact and suitable for small spaces or supplemental use.
Modern refrigerators haven’t seen significant leaps in energy efficiency for 20 years or more; they are essentially well-insulated boxes with compressors. Since the cost of insulation is relatively low, and the technology has not drastically changed, there’s minimal efficiency difference between high-end and budget models today. It’s a consideration, but not a hard one to satisfy. Opting for a more efficient fridge is a no brainer, it’s an appliance that usually runs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It’s unwise to save a few dollars now only to pay hundreds more in power later. While opting for a more efficient model is a wise choice, it’s also important not to overspend for marginal gains in efficiency, as the extra cost may not justify the small increase in performance, and be more a way of justifying a prestige model.
Avoid fridges that are overloaded with smart features and electronic add ons. While these technologies may appear appealing, they introduce unnecessary potential points of failure, possibly shortening the lifespan of your refrigerator, especially so for budget models which are unlikely to have parts available after a few short years. Simple designs are often more reliable and easier to maintain over the long term. Components embedded in doors, like water dispensers and digital displays are particularly vulnerable due to repeated stress from door movements.
When it comes to purchasing a refrigerator, the brand can significantly impact the long-term viability and maintenance of your appliance. Opting for a well-known brand often ensures that replacement parts will be readily available, even many years after your purchase. For example, Fisher and Paykel are known for maintaining a supply of some parts for their appliances (though notably not fridge doors) dating back as long as 25 years. This availability of parts makes it less likely that a minor fault will require a full appliance replacement.
Conversely, choosing a lesser known brand might save money upfront but could lead to challenges in finding parts down the line. While economical, such brands tend not to support their products with a long-term supply of parts, making repairs difficult or impossible. Regrettably, given the high labour costs in countries like Australia, it is often more cost-effective to purchase a new, inexpensive appliance from imported from abroad than to pay for repairs in countries like Australia. Moreover, the variable quality of local appliance repairs can make maintenance less reliable and economically viable when accounting for the risk of poor workmanship. Despite the allure of investing in high quality products, the financial rationale for maintaining them can be hard to justify.
Cyclic refrigerators allow natural ice buildup which must be manually defrosted every 6-12 months by emptying and turning off the fridge for 24 hours. These models are made of significantly fewer components, making them cheaper and less prone to faults. This actually forms the basis of the perception that older fridges that predated widespread use of frost free technology were more reliable, because they were – but not because they were necessarily built better, but because there was less to go wrong. Cyclic technology is less common in modern combined fridge freezer units but remains prevalent in bar fridges, standalone fridges, and standalone freezers including chest freezers.
Frost-free models use a fan to circulate air and a heater to prevent ice accumulation, eliminating the need for manual defrosting. This convenience means consistent temperatures and less maintenance but are less reliable than cyclic models. Frost free technology is standard in most contemporary refrigerator designs due to its convenience and consistent cooling.
The level of adjustability in refrigerator shelves can vary significantly from model to model. Some fridges offer only a few possible shelf positions, limiting your ability to customize storage space, while others provide much greater flexibility, allowing you to easily accommodate items of varying sizes.
Additionally, pay close attention to the material of the shelves. Clear plastic, though commonly used, is more susceptible to breaking compared to other materials like tougher plastics or glass. If a shelf breaks, replacement can be challenging—especially if the specific part is no longer available or is prohibitively expensive. In such cases, the inability to replace a shelf can render the entire fridge less functional, and it might even end up being discarded prematurely. Therefore, choosing a fridge with durable shelves not only enhances usability but also contributes to the appliance’s longevity.
The compressor is the heart of any refrigerator, crucial for its functionality and logevity. A failure in the compressor often renders the refrigerator beyond economical repair, as replacements can be prohibitively expensive. Surprisingly, many shoppers overlook this vital component when selecting a new fridge.
Performing a simple brand check on the compressor before purchasing is a small step that can save you from significant expenses and inconvenience. Look for models equipped with Japanese or Korean compressors from brands such as LG, Samsung, Panasonic, or Matsushita. Chinese compressors have significantly improved in recent years, yet they do not have the long-standing reputation for reliability that other brands boast. While they are becoming more competitive, they still lack the historical track record of established Japanese and Korean compressor manufacturers.
An often overlooked but important aspect of refrigerator usability is the direction in which the door opens. If your fridge is positioned with a wall on its left, it is typically more practical to have a door that hinges on the left. Conversely, if the wall is on the right, a right-hinged door is preferable. This prevents awkward openings and closings, particularly in a tight kitchen. Similarly, when a kitchen is designed to have the fridge enclosed within a cupboard, it’s essential to choose one with hinges on the same side as the cupboard’s opening to ensure seamless access. It’s a common misconception that refrigerator doors are easily reversible. In reality, reversing the door is not straightforward; it often requires replacing the doors themselves and at best usually involves buying new hinges, handles, and other components. The process is also labour intensive. Get the hinge direction right from the start.
Navigating your refrigerator purchase within a budget doesn’t mean compromising on quality. One strategy to consider is buying a used, high-quality appliance. This approach allows you to access better features and larger sizes that might otherwise be out of reach financially if purchased new. It’s an open secret in the appliance market that refrigerators depreciate quickly; a fridge that’s just left the showroom is only worth 30-50% of its sticker price. This depreciation curve suggests a smart opportunity: let someone else bear the brunt of this initial loss. Purchasing a gently used refrigerator can offer substantial savings. This option requires a bit more effort in terms of arranging pickup and installation, but the financial benefits can be considerable. However – it’s also prudent to approach this market with caution, as scams are rife. Check out our guide here to avoid being scammed. My insider tip – buy a used FIsher & Paykel fridge in place of a brand new no name, the Fisher and Paykel is likely to be half the price and easily outlive the cheapy.
Anecdotes and unverified claims often fuel the myth that vinegar damages washing machines. For example, one widely circulated story on social media and picked up by mainstream media includes a claim that vinegar has disfigured a rubber washing machine hose from a Fisher and Paykel washing machine with included photographs as proof. As a Fisher and Paykel specialist, I have examined the image in question and can confirm that the hose is not damaged; rather, it is in its correct operational shape. This is precisely what that hose is supposed to look like. It is part number H0020300797 “Hose Dispenser Tub” which connects the soap dispenser to the washing machine tub on all newer FIsher and Paykel frontloaders. You don’t have to take it from me, you can Google the part number to see a wide selection of photographs showing the part brand new from parts suppliers. It might be a bit out of shape where it is being held in the photograph, but it could also easily have been manipulated to look like that before the photo and then held in place for the photo. In any case, the hose pictured is perfectly serviceable.
This misinformation appears to be a case of misunderstanding, where individuals without technical expertise are misinterpreting normal appliance parts as damaged. There’s likely no actual Fisher and Paykel technician involved in this claim—just a fabrication or a misinterpretation of the facts. Additionally, even if we were to consider the possibility that the hose had been damaged, there is no concrete evidence here linking vinegar to the damage. The assertion that the washing machine’s owner used vinegar to soften their towels does not substantiate vinegar as the cause. The quality of such a claim is questionable at best. Such speculative reasoning underscores the importance of scrutinising and verifying claims before accepting them as facts.
The anecdotal evidence frequently cited in arguments against the use of vinegar in washing machines often lacks scientific rigor and is typically based on individual, unverified accounts. It is unreasonable to attribute the failure of a washing machine component, such as a seal, to vinegar alone, especially when this usually occurs after extended use involving various substances over many years. To conclusively blame vinegar without considering other factors is overly simplistic and unfounded.
While certain types of rubber can be susceptible to degradation from vinegar when exposed over long periods, this concern is largely irrelevant for modern washing machines. It is important to recognise that the technology and materials used in the manufacturing of washing machines have significantly advanced over the years. Historically, older washing machines may have utilised natural rubber components that were not as resistant to acidic substances like vinegar. Long-term exposure to vinegar in these machines could potentially lead to the deterioration of the natural rubber components. However, if you own a washing machine that predates this millennium and its rubber components are miraculously still intact, it would be wise to avoid using vinegar.
The evolution of materials in the past two decades means that the potential for vinegar to damage modern washing machines is not a realistic concern. During this period, washing machine manufacturers have turned to more durable materials such as Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) and silicone rubber. These materials, while more expensive than natural rubber, are chosen for their superior resistance to a wide range of environmental stresses, including chemical exposures from detergents and cleaning agents like vinegar and bleach. Although these materials cost more than natural rubber, they are preferred for their outstanding resistance to a variety of environmental stresses, including exposure to chemicals found in detergents, cleaning agents like vinegar, and bleach. Given these advancements, it would be highly unusual for manufacturers to choose materials vulnerable to vinegar-induced damage. Using such susceptible materials could lead to consumer dissatisfaction and potential legal claims, as the products might not be considered fit for purpose.
Washing machine components are routinely subjected to high temperatures, ranging up to 95°C (203°F), and interact with a cocktail of cleaning agents including highly alkaline detergents, fabric softeners, oxygen bleaches, and even chlorine bleach. Washing machine components are designed to endure much harsher treatments than exposure to a dilute vinegar solution during the rinse cycle. The idea that vinegar – which is comparatively mild – could cause damage seems unlikely.
To illustrate this resilience and from my extensive experience in the second-hand appliance sales industry, it’s common practice to remove heavily moulded door boots of all brands and soak them in strong commercial bleach. Remarkably, seals that were once rigid and seemingly beyond repair emerge from the bleach solution supple and impeccably clean, as if they were new. Given that these rubber components can endure such intense bleach treatments and come out in better condition than they went in, the idea that vinegar, a much milder substance, could cause harm seems extremely unlikely. In fact, the reason that the door seal is not soaked in vinegar is that it is not aggressive enough – that should tell you everything you need to know!
Furthermore, I have not seen any verifiable evidence that suggests that a dilute vinegar solution used during rinse cycles presents any risk to washing machine components. I would even go so far as to wager that using your washing machine daily with undiluted vinegar in place of water would not cause any issues other than pungent clothes. I have tested the claim somewhat by running a cycle with double-strength vinegar at high temperatures and observed no adverse effects on the washing machine rubbers or drum. This experiment does not address the potential long-term effects of vinegar contact.
The evidence strongly supports the use of vinegar in washing machines as a safe and effective cleaning agent in modern washing machines. While historical concerns about the impact of vinegar on natural rubber components were valid, advancements in material science have rendered these worries obsolete for modern appliances. Today’s washing machines are equipped with more durable materials, which are well-suited to withstand the mild acidity of vinegar. Anecdotal claims and unverified stories continue to circulate, but they lack scientific rigor and often stem from misunderstandings or misinterpretations of the facts. My professional experience, coupled with proactive empirical testing, reaffirms that vinegar, even when used in higher concentrations, does not harm the structural integrity or functionality of contemporary washing machine components. You should feel confident in incorporating vinegar into your laundry routines, benefiting from its natural cleaning properties without fear of damage to their appliances.
Let me also assure our Whybuy customers: We will never provide you with a washing machine that cannot handle vinegar. If you choose to run your machine with pure vinegar, feel free to do so. The idea that a modern washing machine could be damaged by vinegar is frankly ludicrous. Any machine that can’t withstand such a mild agent is simply not up to standard. So go ahead and use vinegar as you see fit!
