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Fridge Dripping Water? Here’s How to Fix it

Dealing with a fridge dripping water or a leaking fridge can be frustrating, especially when you’re unsure of the cause. As an appliance repair specialist, I’m here to demystify this common issue and provide actionable advice for both identifying and solving the problem. It’s essential to differentiate between the normal operation of your fridge, which might include some dripping sounds, and the signs of an actual leak.

Why is Water Coming out of my Fridge?

First – it’s crucial to differentiate between the normal operation of a refrigerator, such as dripping sounds, and an actual leak. It is normal for all fridges to produce a dripping sound, and so too it is normal for water to be coming out of a fridge. We run into problems when that water is not going where it is meant to.

Some refrigerators naturally produce a dripping noise due to the circulation of their refrigerant, which is a normal aspect of their operation and not a cause for concern. Additionally, refrigerators generate water as part of their functioning. At the heart of this process is the evaporator, the component where the cooling occurs, some fridges only have one in the freezer including most frost free models, while others have one in the fridge and one in the freezer, including most cyclic models. Working below freezing temperatures when the compressor is running, the evaporator causes moisture in the air to freeze upon contact whenever the fridge door is opened. In non-frost-free or cyclic models, the ice that forms on the evaporator within the fridge section periodically melts away—approximately every 30-40 minutes when the compressor cycles off. In the freezer section of these models, ice continues to accumulate until manually defrosted by the user. Frost free fridges, on the other hand, are designed with a defrost heater in the freezer that activates periodically to melt away any accumulated ice on the evaporator. In a frost free fridge, these drips may hit the heating element directly, creating a sizzling noise. So, if you’re hearing these sounds or seeing drips but there isn’t actually a problem, rest assured that your fridge is likely just doing its job.

Normal Fridge Dripping

You probably do not have a problem if you can see or it sounds like:

  • fridge dripping water with or without a sizzling noise
  • water dripping from the back of fridge into a pan
  • fridge dripping water from top
  • fridge leaking water inside from top
  • fridge leaking inside from top
  • fridge leaking water from freezer
  • fridge leaks water every few days
  • fridge keeps leaking water, but the water is not ending up somewhere unwanted

A Leaking Fridge

You have a problem if you’re dealing with unwanted puddles, or water where there should not be water:

  • fridge leaking water inside bottom shelf
  • fridge leaking water inside under crisper vegetable drawers
  • fridge leaking water from front
  • fridge leaking water from door
  • fridge dripping water inside and it’s making a mess
  • water is coming out of your fridge and resulting in puddles or damage
If you are dealing with a leak, a frost free fridge fridge leaks water every day or few days, when, and shortly after the defrost heater is activated.  A cyclic model will leak water every hour or so as the compressor cycles on and off.

The 5 Causes of a Dripping Fridge

1: A Cracked Evaporation Pan

If you have a cracked evaporation pan the most likely symptoms you will encounter are:

  • fridge freezer leaking water underneath
  • fridge dripping water underneath
  • fridge leaking water from back
  • water dripping back of fridge
  • the leak started after the fridge has been moved

Water produced by a fridge has to go somewhere. In most refrigerators the water is meant to drip into a drip tray located beneath the evaporators. This tray collects melted ice and funnels it into a drain, which empties into an evaporation pan either atop the compressor outside the fridge or beneath it. Here, the water is evaporated by the heat the fridge expels. Should this tray crack, it can lead to water leaking onto the floor. If your refrigerator starts leaking post move, the cause is likely a drain pan that has been damaged by the trolley during the move. The tray can usually be replaced without much trouble, or it can be removed and repaired with silicone, providing a practical fix when replacements are too costly or not readily available.

This is a common issue with newer Fisher and Paykel refrigerators, whose drain pans are particularly prone to snapping from their mounts when trolleyed from the back. The damage might remain unnoticed for a few hours or even days after the fridge is turned on, with water leaking onto the floor from underneath the fridge, or from the back of the fridge.

The freezer of a Fisher and Paykel fridge with the back panel removed exposing the evaporator

2: An Improperly Levelled Fridge

Many people are unaware that properly leveling your fridge is essential to prevent leaks. Recall the water produced during the fridge’s operation; it naturally follows gravity from higher to lower points. If your fridge leans forward, even slightly, water may not drain correctly but instead flow forward, resulting in the:

  • fridge leaking water inside bottom shelf
  • fridge leaking water inside under crisper vegetable drawers
  • fridge keeps leaking water inside
  • fridge leaking water from front
  • fridge leaking inside from top of the fridge section
  • fridge leaking water from freezer into fridge

Most are unaware that properly leveling your fridge is essential to preventing leaks. That water from earlier, remember how it needs to go somewhere? Well it also needs to obey the laws of physics so it will flow from high to low. And if your fridge is leaning forward even the tiniest bit, the water may not flow into its drain as it should but rather it can come forward, resulting in leaks that are inside the fridge, not coming from outside the fridge. Fridges are always designed to lean back, never forward. For fridges with the freezer at the top this usually manifests as water under the crisper vegetable drawers, dripping from the top of the fridge, or leaks that appear to come from the freezer. Usually there is also a puddle at the front of the fridge that may come and go. For refrigerators with the freezer on the bottom, it usually manifests In the generation of sheets of ice on the bottom of the freezer, which can often go unnoticed because it doesn’t cause many problems. To check if your fridge is tilted forward open the freezer door about a third of the way. Does it fallback toward the fridge, stay in place or open further? If it opens further your fridge is tilted forward, if it stays in place the fridge is probably not tilted back enough, and if it falls towards the fridge the tilt is sufficient.

Theoretically, the solution to this dripping fridge is straightforward: ensure your fridge has a slight backward tilt. A minimal incline is sufficient; overly tilting it backward is unnecessary, but you won’t hurt a fridge tilting it back too far. Fridges are equipped with two adjustable front feet: turning them counterclockwise extends them, and clockwise retracts them. It’s easier to adjust these feet with the fridge empty to avoid having to lift the stored food as well. Ideally, two people should perform this adjustment: one slightly tilts the fridge back and the other adjusts the feet until a slight backward lean is achieved. To check the adjustment, slightly push the fridge door open; it should swing back on its own to some extent, but needn’t necessarily close by itself.

However, if your fridge has been leaking for a while, simply re-leveling it might not resolve the issue. Extended periods of leakage can lead to water refreezing in places it shouldn’t, obstructing proper drainage. In such cases, the best course of action is to empty the fridge, turn it off, and allow it to defrost completely for 24-48 hours with the doors open, ensuring all ice buildup melts. Placing towels on the floor will help absorb any water that leaks out during this process.

3: A Blocked Drain

A blocked defrost drain, situated beneath the fridge’s evaporator, will have symptoms similar to those of a fridge that’s not level – primarily water leaking from the inside. A drain can become blocked when common culprits like a pea, soggy piece of cardboard, or fragments of glass or plastic fall into the drip tray. While theoretically straightforward to resolve – in practice – the blockage becomes more complicated. Ice accumulates behind the debris, creating a sort of mini-glacier, because the defrost heater continues to operate without anywhere for the melted ice to go. This ice encases the obstruction, making it impossible to remove without first dealing with the ice buildup.

To clear a blocked drain, turn the fridge off to allow it to defrost over 24-48 hours with the doors open. If you’re pressed for time, applying heat with a hairdryer or heat gun can melt the ice faster, but be careful to avoid damaging plastic components in the process. Boiling or hot water may also work and is less prone to damage, but can be messy and more dangerous.
For frost-free models, removing the panel inside, and at the back of the freezer is usually required to access the evaporator, drip tray, and drain, and specific to each fridge’s design. To find the correct procedure for your model, it’s advisable to search online using your refrigerator’s brand and model along with phrases like access evaporator or remove back freezer panel for guidance. Typically, this panel is secured with screws, which may be concealed beneath caps, as well as hidden plastic clips. You need to carefully pry the panel off after unscrewing, being mindful not to break the plastic components, but usually with more than enough force to break them. This is a task that requires experience unfortunately, and if you’re having your first go at this, expect some breakage of the back panel. Additionally, attempting to remove this panel without first allowing any accumulated ice to melt can complicate the process, as the ice may effectively ‘glue’ the panel to the rest of the refrigerator, making removal more challenging. For beginners its better to wait for the ice to melt out naturally with a doors open defrost. Once the back panel is removed if required, and the ice is melted out, you’ll see the obstruction sitting in the drip pan over the drain hole. Stab it out using a flathead screwdriver and some satisfaction or use a vacuum cleaner to suck it out. Once unblocked, pour a glass of water into the drain tray. The drain isn’t meant to handle large volumes of water quickly, but a couple hundred millilitres should drain in less than thirty seconds if it’s clear.

An alternative but ill-advised approach is to come from the drain hole’s exit underneath the fridge. This can usually be found above the compressor. Using a cut coat hanger to poke up the hole or using compressed air can be effective at temporarily removing the blockage after a defrost, but often the debris will fall back into the hole in days or weeks leading to the same issue.

A completely iced up drip tray with blocked drain. This fridge would be leaking water inside.
An ice free drip tray showing the drain hole and a wire that goes into it to transfer heat from the defrost heater and prevent it from plugging with ice.

4: A Leaking Water Connection

If your fridge has a water connection, for an automatic ice maker or chilled water dispenser, this is an obvious source of leaks you should consider, and one that is very easy to diagnose. Simply find the tap that the fridge is connected to and turn it off.  If the leak stops, you have found the issue.  If the leak continues, turn the tap off, and disconnect the line running to the fridge, we want to rule out a tap that isn’t closing properly too. If the fridge doesn’t leak when the water is off, theres your problem

A faulty icemaker or joint in the pipe work can easily create a leak. Because there is so much variation in water connections and how they are made to and within a fridge, this article will not attempt to cover all of the various ways you might narrow down the issue – we’ve got you some of the way there, now you need to head to Doc Google for more specific information related to your appliance.

5: A Badly Designed Fridge

Sometimes, the root cause of a refrigerator’s leak isn’t a simple fix or maintenance issue but rather an inherent design flaw. When a refrigerator leaks internally despite all efforts to correct it, the design may be at fault, and options for a fix can be limited.

Samsung French door refrigerators exemplify how unique designs can contribute to persistent issues. Unlike more traditional frost free models that feature a single evaporator located in the freezer from which cold air is distributed, these units have separate evaporators for both the fridge and freezer sections. Somehow they have made a mess of the drain in the fridge which often develops leaks which just cannot be resolved.  You can lean it, clean it, doesn’t matter – it leaks. 

Another case that comes to mind involves a friends LG bottom mount refrigerator, where no amount of leveling or drain clearing seems to prevent ice sheet formation in the freezer. It didn’t matter what I did, the drain always froze over and blocked itself. This scenario suggests a design or component flaw that defies typical maintenance or adjustment efforts. Owners of such models might find themselves manually removing ice buildup on a regular basis, but there simply is no other choice.  Sometimes a model is a lemon, and the best way to avoid these lemons is to check online reviews before you buy, and steering clear of new untested models.  Samsung have been making their same badly designed model for more than a decade now, don’t be a sucker and buy one of their bad french doors new.

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How to Clean A Washing Machine Drain Pump Filter and Why You Probably Shouldn’t

You might come across recommendations suggesting the removal of the drain pump filter for periodic cleaning. Our advice is don’t. While manufacturers will often suggest it be done frequently and provide video instructionals showing the procedure carried out on a gleaming new machine that hasn’t done a days work in its life, reality paints a different picture. The process can be messy, fraught with complications, and potentially time-consuming, risking days without a functioning washing machine. In this article, we will guide you through the removal of your drain pump filter, should you choose to proceed despite our recommendations. We’ll also explore a more effective method for maintaining a clean washing machine drain pump filter, offering a simpler solution to ensure a clean appliance.

The Role of the Drain Pump Filter

At its core, the drain pump filter’s purpose is to protect the drain hose and in particular the drain pump from blockages by trapping forgotten items in pockets that are too big to pass through like coins, bobby pins, screws and nails before they get to the pump. Without this safeguard, objects could travel into the pumps propellor jamming it, or potentially though less likely wedging and blocking the drain hose impairing functionality or necessitating costly repairs.

When to Remove the Drain Pump Filter

The removal of the drain pump filter should not be a routine step undertaken lightly. It is advisable only in specific circumstances:

  • To prevent mould growth when the machine will not be in use for an extended period (exceeding a month), such as during long-term storage, international shipping
  • When there are evident problems like slow draining or a failure to drain, which indicate a blockage. The headaches that can be caused by unnecessary removal of the filter generally do not outweigh the benefit.
  • For some households it ought to be said, the drain pump filter will require regular removal – those households where pockets are frequently filled with forgotten items and not thoroughly checked. For those households it may be best to have a replacement filter on hand to avoid downtime.

Step 1: Prevention is better than Cure

Often, items left in clothes don’t actually reach the drain pump filter; they get caught in the washing machine’s drum or the door seal (also known as the door boot). By adopting a routine of checking pockets before loading the machine, and inspecting the door seal after each wash, you can intercept most of these items before they progress into the drain pump filter. 

Step 2: Locating the Washing Machine Drain Filter

Top Loaders

Top loader washing machines, particularly those in Australia, are unlikely to have a drain pump filter. The design of top-loader washers typically prevents larger items from passing between the bowl and basket, rendering a drain pump filter unnecessary. I cannot see any reason why it would be different internationally, but my research for writing this article seems to indicate that overseas things may be different, though I cannot fathom why.

Front Loaders

Every front loader washing machine I have ever seen has had the drain pump filter in the same place. Whether it’s an older washing machine or a newer washing machine, the drain pump filter is located behind a flap on the lower front of the machine. Often you need to insert a butter knife or screwdriver into a slot to open it.

Step 3: Removing the Drain Pump Filter

If removal is necessary, you may want to turn off the water supply to the machine to avoid accidents. Wait a few hours after the last use, especially after hot cycles, to let any hot water remaining in the machine to cool down and prevent burns.If removal is necessary, you may want to turn off the water supply to the machine to avoid accidents. 

Upon opening the flap, the circular front on the filter will be revealed, which unscrews counterclockwise. Preparing for a potential watery mess is wise; have a towel ready and begin to unscrew the filter gently. This action will release any water trapped at the bottom of the machine. Turning the filter initially might be challenging; using a pair of pliers can be helpful, but be cautious to avoid causing any damage.

For a tidier method of draining residual water, you may find a small capped rubber outlet hose near the filter. Positioning a tub or bowl below this hose and then removing the cap with a twisting motion will allow for a controlled flow of water. Do not just tug the cap off, you risk damaging the hose, its important to twist while pulling gently to break the seal. This approach comes with its own set of challenges. The hose inside the washer is usually deliberately kinked from factory as a second measure to prevent leaks. A moderate pull is necessary to straighten the hose and enable the water to drain efficiently. Excessive force risks damaging the hose, leading to potential replacement needs, while insufficient force could prevent water from draining altogether. In some instances, the machine might not have a separate rubber hose, instead featuring an outlet integrated into the drain filter itself. This can usually be activated with a flathead screwdriver to enable water release.

Dealing with a Stuck Washing Machine Filter

Removing the filter isn’t always straightforward, either. Objects such as coins, bobby pins, and screws can jam the filter, complicating its removal or reinsertion. For some models, such as Fisher and Paykel front loaders, the front of the filter can easily detach from the body, particularly if pulled too forcefully. If the filter becomes jammed or the front detaches during removal, and it’s confirmed to be fully unscrewed, you essentially have two options. If there’s enough space, a long flathead screwdriver can be used to wedge between the filter housing and the filter’s inner front face. Carefully – and often forcefully – leveraging the screwdriver can ease the filter out, though the significant force required risks breaking it. This technique is recommended for Fisher and Paykel front loader washing machines.

For machines where inserting a screwdriver could cause damage to the machine’s front, attempting to use pliers to grasp the front of the filter and pull it out may work. However, this approach can be problematic for some models, like the Fisher and Paykel front loader, where it might only result in pulling off the face of the filter, leaving you in basically the same situation but with nothing to pull on. In such cases, persistence, patience, and careful manipulation of the filter might get the job done, or you might need to consult a professional to remove the pump filter housing and push the filter out from behind.

Step 4: Cleaning the Drain Pump Filter and Filter Housing

Removing Lint and Debris

Start by manually removing any tangled lint and visible debris from the filter with your fingers. This step is repellant even for a seasoned service tech but there is no way around it.

Rinsing the Filter

Place the filter under running water to wash away residual grime. Ensure the water flow reaches all parts of the filter to remove as much buildup as possible.

Detailed Cleaning with a Toothbrush

For a deeper clean, use a toothbrush to scrub the nooks and crannies of the filter. A toothbrush is particularly effective at dislodging stubborn particles that water rinsing alone might not remove.

Cleaning the Rubber Seal

Pay special attention to the rubber seal around the filter. It often accumulates a ring of buildup that can prevent proper sealing, leading to potential leaks. Gently clean the seal with the toothbrush or a cloth to ensure a proper seal when reinstalled.

Cleaning the Filter Housing

Use a damp rag to clean the area from which the pump filter was removed – the pump filter housing. It’s important to clean inside thoroughly, as debris tends to accumulate here as well.

Checking for Obstructions

Feel around inside the filter housing for a hole on one side where water enters from the washer’s drum. Probe for any debris that might be blocking this entrance and remove it carefully. Be careful as the debris may be sharp – nails or screws for instance.  If space allows, tilting the washing machine to one side and gently shaking it can help dislodge any trapped debris. This method can be effective for removing objects that are proving difficult to remove. 

Checking the Propellor

While we’re here, it’s wise to inspect the drain pump propeller for any obstructions, particularly if you’ve taken out the filter due to slow or non-draining issues with the washer. Shine a torch into the back of the drain pump filter housing to spot the four-blade propeller. It’s common for items like hair ties or bandaids to wrap around the propeller shaft, causing failure. Although these may be challenging to see, try your best to inspect closely. If you discover any obstructions such as a hair tie or bandaid, you can typically remove them using long tweezers or needle-nose pliers. In some cases, a utility knife may be necessary to cut away the debris before gently pulling it off with the tweezers or pliers

Step 5: Reinserting the Drain Pump Filter

After cleaning the filter and ensuring that the drain pump propellor is free of debris, the next task is to replace the filter into its housing. It’s important to note that most filters are designed with two locator tabs. These tabs must be aligned with the corresponding notches in the housing for the filter to be pushed into the housing. When screwing the filter back into place, it should twist smoothly and come to an abrupt stop once it’s fully tightened. This sudden stop indicates that the filter is correctly positioned and securely fastened, and will usually be accompanied by the turning grip on the filter being positioned straight up and down. When screwing the filter back in, if it becomes increasingly difficult to turn, feeling tighter without reaching that definitive stopping point, usually it means that the rubber seal on the filter has become pinched. A pinched seal will not be watertight. Addressing a pinched seal can sometimes be as simple as exercising patience; removing and reattempting the insertion of the filter multiple times can sometimes resolve the issue. The correct solution however is to replace the filter entirely. Generally, the rubber washer or seal is not available as a standalone replacement part. If the seal is damaged or worn, buying a new filter is necessary.

A Better Option

Instead of opting for removing the drain pump filter for cleaning, there’s a more efficient and less intrusive method worth considering: using bleach to clean the filter and eliminate mould. This approach involves adding approximately 500ml of generic bleach directly into the drum of your washing machine. Now select the longest cycle excluding pre washes and extra rinses, and select the hottest temperature available. Start the machine.

It’s advisable to use cheaper bleach options for this purpose, as pricier alternatives tend to include additional detergents that might lead to oversudsing, which could overflow and potentially flood your laundry area. The goal of this bleach cycle is to tackle and eliminate mould, mildew, and bacteria not just in your drain pump filter, but throughout your washing machine. The bleach will also work to dissolve lint that has accumulated in the drain pump filter. For those looking to ensure a thorough clean, allowing the bleach solution to soak in the washing machine before running the cycle can be particularly effective. While this method won’t address non-organic materials such as coins, screws, and nails, it effectively kills mould and dissolves all the lint, addressing two of the main concerns related to washing machine maintenance.

Opting to clean your washing machine with bleach offers a significant advantage over manually removing the drain pump filter. It circumvents the potential issues discussed earlier, such as the filter becoming stuck during removal or the rubber seal getting pinched and compromised. This bleach cleaning method provides a straightforward, hassle-free solution to maintain your washing machine’s cleanliness and functionality, without the drawbacks associated with physical filter removal, and can also be combined with a deep clean if your washing machine, check out our full guide here.

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How to Deep Clean Your Washing Machine with Bleach and Descaler

As an appliance technician, I often encounter front loader washing machines that need more than just a basic clean. Over time, these machines can harbor bacteria, mould, and limescale, affecting their performance and lifespan. If you’ve noticed visible mould or your machine is smelling musty, it’s a clear indicator that it’s time for a comprehensive deep clean. This process is not only crucial for maintaining hygiene but also for ensuring your machine continues to operate at its best. Today, I’ll guide you through a comprehensive deep cleaning process using bleach and descaler. For those seeking preventive maintenance tips rather than an immediate deep clean, I recommend exploring our guide on vinegar washes for washing machines, which offers a gentler approach to regular upkeep.

Step 1: Checking the Door Boot

Begin by inspecting the door boot for any foreign objects. It’s not uncommon to find coins, hair ties, nails, screws, and bobby pins lodged here. Extracting these objects will prevent damage to the basket the drum rotates in; a single dislodged coin or screw for example can puncture it, resulting in a costly repair. Similarly, during the cleaning process, these items can become fragmented or dislodged by the vigorous action of chemical cleaners, potentially blocking the drain pump or migrating to sensitive areas where they may cause issues.

Step 2: Deep Clean Your Washing Machine With Bleach

Next, set your washing machine to the highest temperature and longest cycle available, excluding extra rinses or prewashes. Add approximately 500ml of generic bleach to the drum. Opt for cheaper bleach, as the more expensive types often contain additional detergents that can cause oversudsing and potentially flood your laundry. This bleach cycle aims to eliminate mould, mildew, bacteria, and remove any staining on rubber door seals.

Step 3: Using a Descaler or Washing Machine Cleaner (optional)

Bleach is highly effective at killing bacteria and removing stains, but its cleaning prowess does not extend to the elimination of limescale or mineral deposits. These deposits can originate not only from hard water but also from the detergents used. This is where the critical need for a quality descaler becomes evident. In areas with hard water, the accumulation of deposits that bleach cannot address makes descaling indispensable.

For many, running a cycle with bleach alone is enough to keep their washing machine clean and functioning well. While it’s beneficial to perform a descaling cycle when possible, it’s not always strictly necessary for achieving satisfactory cleaning results. Identifying the need for descaling, however, can be challenging without disassembling the machine to inspect the basket directly. It’s wise to lean towards descaling, but there’s no need for excessive worry.

The Role of a Descaler

The complementary roles of bleach and descaler stem from their differing pH levels. Bleach, being alkaline, excels at sanitising the washing machine by targeting a broad spectrum of bacteria and moulds, including removing mould stains from the door boot. In contrast, descalers, with their acidic nature, excel at dissolving the stubborn mineral buildups like limescale, which are immune to the effects of bleach. This acidic condition also proves fatal to microbes that may have adapted to the alkaline conditions fostered by bleach.

By using bleach and descaler in tandem, you cover a more extensive range of cleaning challenges. This dual approach ensures a more hygienic, efficient, and durable washing machine, preventing the survival and adaptation of various microorganisms. Together, bleach and descaler deliver a comprehensive cleaning solution that addresses both bacterial contamination and mineral buildup, ensuring the long-term health of your appliance.

Choosing the Right Descaler

When it comes to selecting a descaler for your washing machine, it’s important to be aware that all that glitters is not gold. Many products advertised as descalers are merely repackaged oxygen bleach, offering little in the way of true descaling properties. To ensure you’re getting an effective product, look for those containing significant amounts of citric acid, sulphamic acid, or, optimally, a combination of both. The synergy between citric acid and sulphamic acid is what sets them apart as an ideal descaling duo.

Citric acid, a natural and potent chelating agent, excels at binding to minerals and metal ions, particularly calcium, found in hard water. This ability not only allows it to effectively dissolve limescale but also to prevent its formation. Citric acid’s organic nature makes it less corrosive and safer for use on a variety of surfaces, which is why it’s a preferred ingredient in many eco-friendly cleaning products. However, its gentle nature means it might not always be strong enough to tackle more stubborn or long-standing mineral deposits.

This is where sulphamic acid comes into play. Sulphamic acid is a stronger acid with excellent descaling properties. It’s particularly effective against the toughest limescale deposits and can work in a wider range of temperatures. Its addition to the cleaning mix enhances the overall potency of the descaling process, ensuring that even the most persistent build-ups can be effectively removed.

By combining citric acid’s chelating properties with the robust descaling capabilities of sulphamic acid, you create a comprehensive cleaning solution that tackles both fresh and entrenched limescale deposits. This combination ensures a thorough clean without the need for excessively harsh chemicals, making it a safer choice for both the appliance and the environment.

For those purchasing citric acid and sulphamic acid in bulk, the cost-effectiveness is matched by their broad utility around the home. Citric acid, a natural and environmentally friendly substance, has a wide range of applications beyond just descaling. It can be used to remove limescale from kettles and coffee makers, polish brass and copper items to a brilliant shine, and even act as a natural fabric softener in laundry, eliminating the need for chemical-based products. Furthermore, its gentle yet effective acidic properties make it an excellent choice for homemade surface cleaners. Mixed with water, it can safely clean kitchen countertops, faucets, and bathroom surfaces, cutting through grease and soap scum without the harsh chemicals found in many commercial cleaners. Citric acid’s versatility extends to being an ingredient in natural dishwasher detergents and window cleaners, offering a streak-free finish.

Sulphamic acid, stronger than citric acid, excels in areas where tougher mineral deposits persist. It’s particularly effective for deep cleaning toilet bowls, dissolving hard water stains in tile grout, and restoring the cleanliness of dishwashers and other appliances affected by limescale. Its robust descaling properties make it invaluable for intensive cleaning tasks where citric acid might need a boost.

Avoid Washing Machine Cleaner With Sodium Percarbonate Listed as the Active Ingredient, it is Overpriced Oxygen Bleach
A Good Quality Washing Machine Cleaner and Descaler With a High Percentage of Sulphamic Acid and Citric Acid

Directions for Using Descaler

If you’re using a store-bought, pre-packaged descaler, adhere to the instructions provided on the packet. For those who have opted to purchase citric acid and sulphamic acid in bulk, a tablespoon of each added to the soap drawer is sufficient. Opt for the highest available wash temperature on the longest wash cycle.

The use of citric acid requires careful moderation. While beneficial for descaling, excessive use can compromise the washing machine’s rubber components. Notably, the door seal may become overly soft, increasing the risk of it detaching from the machine’s front. Typically, the rubber regains its normal firmness after several wash cycles. Excessive citric acid can also cause permanent white stains on rubber parts, such as the door seal. Finding the right balance between effective descaling and preserving the machine’s components is crucial for its longevity and performance.

Step 3: Cleaning the Soap Drawer

Soap drawers are common places for the accumulation of mould and soap scum. To clean, gently pull the drawer out to its full extension; you should find a button or release mechanism that allows you to completely remove it. Use Jif, a cloth, and a toothbrush for a thorough cleaning, ensuring you reach all the small spaces and corners. Additionally, inspect and clean the cavity from which the drawer was removed, applying Jif and using the toothbrush to scrub both the compartment and the water inlets on the top of the compartment, which are particularly prone to mould.

For a less hands on approach, particularly effective against mould, consider using a hand sprayer filled with either undiluted bleach or a solution diluted to 50%. Directly spray the problematic areas and allow the solution to work its magic for 24 hours, repeating the process if necessary. Be aware that bleach will quickly damage internal metal components of the sprayer, so be sure to rinse it thoroughly after use. For a comprehensive clean, the soap drawer itself can be immersed in a bleach solution, offering a simple way to address heavy buildup. Should you come across scale buildup that doesn’t hinder the drawer’s functionality, it may be wise to leave it untreated. The aggressive acids required for removal could introduce unnecessary risks without providing proportional benefits.

Step 4: Removing and Cleaning the Drain Pump Filter (Not Recommended)

This step is generally not recommended unless you’re experiencing issues with water drainage. Removing the drain pump filter can sometimes cause more problems than it solves. If necessary, follow our detailed guide for this process, understanding the risks involved.

Step 5: Drum Clean Cycle

With our cleaning tasks complete, it’s time to perform one last cycle to ensure all residual traces are removed. If your washing machine is equipped with a drum clean cycle, now is the moment to use it – simply select this option and start the cycle. When your washer next signals it’s time for a drum clean, you’ll know it’s time to go through this cleaning process again. For machines without this feature, choose a standard wash cycle at the highest temperature setting available to thoroughly cleanse the drum.

By following these steps, you’ve not only tackled visible dirt, mould and grime but also preventing the buildup of harmful bacteria and limescale. Remember, the key to a clean washing machine is consistent care and the right cleaning agents.

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Mouldy Washing Machine Rubber Door Seal – Can a Vinegar Washing Machine Clean Beat Bleach?

A very dirty and mouldy frontloader washinmg machine door seal before being cleaned

As a professional washing machine technician, I’ve encountered abundant myths and misconceptions about how to effectively clean and maintain washing machines. My advice to customers is always grounded in practical experience and empirical evidence. One of the most persistent debates is the efficacy of vinegar versus bleach for cleaning the washing machine, particularly the door seal (aka the washing machine rubber door seal of a front loader, or door boot), which is prone to mould and mildew buildup. With my professional experience guiding me, I embarked on an experiment to not only explore the truth behind these cleaning methods but also to challenge the widespread belief that vinegar can damage your machine by rusting the drum.

The Experiment

The goal was straightforward: compare the cleaning power of vinegar and bleach on a dirty, crusty, mould stained washing machine door seal. I documented the condition of the seal before any cleaning took place, photographing the initial extent of mould infestation, then after being cleaned first with vinegar, then with bleach. I also documented the whole process in a moderately long, quite boring video for those who want to see the results at each step.

Will Vinegar Clean a Mouldy Washing Machine Rubber Door Seal?

I started with vinegar, a popular natural cleaning solution praised for its eco friendliness and safety. I had a bias formed from my own professional experience as an appliance technician. I fully expected vinegar to be useless. I wanted to give vinegar every chance of success to put this myth to bed once and for all. I used 4L of 8% double strength pickling vinegar, the equivalent of 8L of standard vinegar. In one wash. Since I was using such an insane amount of vinegar in the wash, I thought it was also a good opportunity to test the myth that vinegar will rust your washing machine drum.

I added the vinegar to the soap dispenser, and ran a long cotton wash at 90°C (194 °F) for 167 minutes. Then I waited. After the cycle finished, I cleaned the rubber door seal with Jif (creme cleanser) to remove any dirt that had been softened enough by the vinegar to be removed and then took photos of the outcome. Despite the cleaning process, the seal remained significantly stained with mould. I was surprised that vinegar had any effect at all.  It was capable of softening the surface detritus enough that it could be removed with the creme cleanser, but unable to tackle the deeper ingrained mould.

A frontloader washing machine door seal before being cleaned with bleach and after being cleaned with vinegar bottom
A frontloader washing machine door seal after being cleaned with vinegar bottom
A frontloader washing machine door seal before being cleaned with bleach and after being cleaned with vinegar
A frontloader washing machine door seal after being cleaned with vinegar side on

Does Vinegar Damage Washing Machines?

After using the equivalent of 8 liters of regular-strength vinegar, there was no damage to the drum. The reason is simple: vinegar isn’t potent enough to harm stainless steel drums, even in its undiluted form. However, it might affect drums that are already compromised by chemical wear. This outcome was anticipated, based on a straightforward rationale. If washing machine drums and their internal parts couldn’t resist the corrosive effects of vinegar, then they’d fail against the harshness of laundry detergents, let alone bleach, and putting it bluntly, a washing machine that can’t handle bleach is essentially unfit for its intended use. It’s as absurd as suggesting that the use of laundry detergent could void a washer’s warranty. Ridiculous. For those readers who are Whybuy customers, rest assured, you’re welcome to use any amount of vinegar or bleach in our machines.

Will Bleach Clean a Mouldy Washing Machine Rubber Door Seal?

Next, I tested bleach, a powerful chemical often warned against for fear of damaging the washing machine, and being bad for the environment – a claim we tested here. I used approximately 250mL of double strength commercial bleach, ensuring it was a basic formula without added detergents that could lead to oversudsing and potential flooding of the machine. It’s crucial to select the right type of bleach – inexpensive, and free of added detergents — to avoid any issues with oversudsing. Following the same cleaning cycle as with vinegar, the results were significantly better. Though minor mould stains persisted, the overall appearance of the door seal improved significantly. To tackle the remaining mould, I applied the commercial double-strength bleach directly to the affected areas several times over a period of days, a timetable more dictated by my own schedule than necessity. The bleach could have been reapplied at around two hour intervals, eliminating the need for extended waits between applications. For those using standard household bleach, achieving comparable results on heavy staining is possible with more frequent applications spaced about two hours apart, thereby enhancing the bleach’s concentration as the water component evaporates from the door seal. Using bleach succeeded in removing nearly all the mould stains effectively.

A frontloader washing machine door seal after being cleaned with bleach bottom
A frontloader washing machine door seal after being cleaned with bleach side

Final Thoughts - Bleach vs Vinegar

The results of this experiment are clear and carry important implications for both appliance maintenance and the use of cleaning agents. Vinegar is an excellent eco friendly and gentle preventative, stopping mould from getting a foothold in your washing machine if used regularly – as suggested in our weekly washing machine maintenance guide here. Unfortunately though it simply lacks the potency to eradicate an established mould infestation. In contrast, bleach, when used carefully and appropriately, proves to be the superior choice for eliminating mould from washing machine seals and the washing machine more broadly.

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What Size Washing Machine Do I Need?

Washing machine capacity is typically measured in kilograms (kg), representing the weight of dry clothing the machine can comfortably wash in a single cycle. Capacities range widely, from compact 5kg models, up to large 12kg+ models.

Washing Machine Capacity by Household Size - A Rule of Thumb

As a guide, the larger your household, the larger the capacity you’ll need:

  • Washing machine average size is around 7kg
  • The best size of washing machine for two people is 5kg to 7kg
  • The best size of washing machine for a family of 4 is 7kg to 9kg
  • The best size of washing machine for a family of 6 is 10kg+

The above rule of thumb simplifies washer selection, but it is not very reliable. Household size is not a reliable measure of what size washing machine is most appropriate for your needs. You should place more importance on how frequently you like to wash, and the largest items you’ll wash.

Laundry Frequency

Individuals who do laundry frequently, including those from large families, may find a 7.5kg washing machine to be more than sufficient. For example, a 7.5kg machine can accommodate the laundry needs of a single person washing twice a week or a family of six managing two loads on a weekday and six over the weekend. This equates to over 16 washes or more than 120kg of laundry weekly. Considering that a standard wash cycle lasts about an hour, running the machine continuously could process over 1000kg of laundry in a week. This capacity is ample for the entire streets needs, and probably the next one over as well. Therefore, the necessity for a larger capacity washer does not necessarily increase with family size; it’s more dependent on the laundry frequency.  

Bulky items

If you’re dealing with bulky items like duvets, blankets, or doonas, a larger washing machine may be necessary if you frequently need to wash these items. For less frequent washing, you can usually cajole a smaller machine into doing the job albeit slowly and with intervention. Although an 8.5kg washing machine, such as the Fisher Paykel front loader, can accommodate a super king duvet, it will struggle to balance the heavy load prior to the spin cycle and may attempt to do so for up to 45 minutes before conceding defeat with an Out of Balance error. Running 3 spin cycles is the way to get a result, starting at a lower rpm (500 RPM), then increasing to 800 RPM and finally 1100 RPM. While an 8.5kg machine suffices for occasional large loads, anyone regularly washing substantial items should consider a machine with a capacity of 10kg or more not only to streamline their laundry process, but to avoid premature wear on their washing machine.

Space Considerations

When selecting a washing machine with a capacity over 8.5kg, or a toploader design, it’s important to consider the unit’s dimensions, particularly for those who frequently move house. Standard washing machine spaces typically accommodate units up to 600mm in width and 850mm in height. Front loaders with a capacity over 8.5kg and all top loaders are not guaranteed to fit into a standard space.

Budget Considerations and Efficiency

For those who do laundry less frequently, opting for a washing machine with a larger capacity can be more time-efficient, enabling the washing of more clothes in fewer loads. While these larger machines are generally pricier to buy and run – owing to increased water and energy consumption – maximizing their capacity can lead to greater efficiency per kilogram of laundry compared to fully loading a smaller machine. On the other hand, if you find yourself doing laundry more frequently, a smaller machine fully loaded will be more economical to run than a larger machine half full, and with a lower initial purchase price.

Marketing Hype

Claims about washing machine capacity by manufacturers often prioritise marketing over genuine functionality. For example, Fisher and Paykel marketed both 8.5kg and 8kg front loaders that were, in fact, identical in every way, including drum size and mechanics, with the 8.5kg variant priced higher. More recently, they rebranded their 7.5kg models as 8kg and similarly upgraded 8kg models to 9kg without any actual physical changes. Samsung’s 10kg bubble washers, too, were advertised as 10kg machines, yet the manual specifies a 2kg limit for sheets. I don’t mean to single out Samsung and Fisher and Paykel; as a specialist in repairing these machines, especially Fisher and Paykel, I’m particularly familiar with their intricacies. So too is it worth noting that Fisher and Paykel machines are well built and, it’s possible they initially underreported their machines capacities for better customer satisfaction, but market competition has forced a reassessment of their strategy.

Nevertheless – I have no doubts these marketing strategies are common across the industry. This makes it especially difficult for consumers to select the right washing machine for their needs. A practical tip for consumers is to measure the drum’s diameter and depth themselves, offering a more accurate assessment of capacity when compared to other models.

The Last Cycle: Summing Up Washing Machine Wisdom

Choosing the right washing machine capacity involves more than considering your household size; it’s more important to understand your laundry habits, the frequency of washes, and the types of items you’re washing. Space, budget and efficiency are also important factors. Be mindful of marketing gimmicks and assess the machine’s capacity independently to ensure it meets your needs. Ultimately, selecting the appropriate washing machine capacity will lead to more efficient and economical laundry management, saving time, energy, and resources in the long run.

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Top Load Washing Machines vs Front Load Washing Machines – Which is Right for You?

Choosing between a front load washing machine and a top load washing machine depends on your family’s specific needs and priorities. If you’re looking for efficiency and space saving options, front loaders might be the way to go. But if ease of use and lower upfront costs are more your speed, a top loader could be your best bet. Remember, the right washing machine is the one that fits seamlessly into your family’s life, making the never-ending battle with laundry a bit more manageable. Let’s break it down, considering washing machine capability, efficiency, space, and cost.

Capability as Washers

Front Load Washing Machines

Front load washing machines are renowned for their gentle treatment of clothes. The tumbling action is less abrasive than the agitator in traditional top loaders, resulting in less wear and tear on fabrics. This can extend the life of your clothes, keeping them looking new for longer.
Front load washing machines usually also have on board heaters, even those with both a hot and cold water connection. They have better control over the wash temperature, and can heat the water to a set temperature as required to kill microbes.

Top Load Washing Machines

Top load washing machines with an agitator are harsher on clothes, which can lead to quicker wear. Some newer top loaders with impellers (instead of agitators) offer a gentler wash that’s more comparable to front loaders. That said though Fisher and Paykel changed from an agitator to impeller design, and then changed back after a few years after poor user satisfaction.

Top load washing machines are usually faster than front load washing machines. If you have a lot of washing you need to get through quickly, a top load washing machine is the better option – with one caveot. When washing bulky items like sheets or bath towels, if they don’t settle out properly at the end of the final rinse, the washer can end up off balance. When this happens after a few tries it gives up and calls for help. If you’ve gone out for the day, and you’re expecting to come home to a finished wash cycle, not so much. So while top loaders can be faster, they can also need your intervention to balance out the load making them slower, and less convenient

Top load washing machines rarely if ever come with on board heaters. There’s no reason why they couldn’t (other than long cycle times while the washer heats the ocean of water within), but they just don’t seem to. This means the hottest a wash can be is as hot as your hot water service is, which in newer buildings is usually regulated to 50 degrees Celsius (122°F). This is not hot enough for sanitation washes. Additionally if you only have a cold water connection for your washer, which is becoming more and more common, a top loader washer will not be able to do anything but a cold water wash, which is a real invitation for mould and microbes.

Efficiency and Water Usage

Front Load Washing Machines

Front load washing machines are celebrated for their efficiency, particularly in terms of water and energy use. They work by tumbling clothes through a small pool of water, which significantly reduces water consumption and the volume of water needed to be heated, which is the most significant energy requirement of a washing machine. Their washing action also requires less detergent and heats water more efficiently, leading to savings on your utility bills.

Top Load Washing Machines

Traditional top loading machines use significantly more water than their front-loading counterparts. They operate by filling the drum with water and using an agitator or impeller to move clothes through the water. While they’ve improved over the years, top loaders will always lag behind front loaders simply by their design.  If you use hot washes, much more water will need to be heated, so you can expect a toploader to cost you significantly more on your energy and water bills.

Space and Accessibility

Front Load Washing Machines

Front load washing machine offer a sleek design that fits well in most modern homes. They can be stacked with a dryer, a crucial feature for those with limited laundry room space. However, bending down to load and unload can be a drawback, especially for those with back issues. Pedestals are available to raise them to a more comfortable height.

Top Load Washing Machines​

Top load washing machines are easier on your back, thanks to their waist-high opening. They’re ideal for those who prefer not to bend over when doing laundry. However, they take up more vertical space and can’t have a stacked dryer, which might be a consideration if you’re tight on space. You could consider hanging a dryer from the wall above a top loader washing machine, but only a lightweight vented dryer can be hung, which means heat pump dryers and condenser dryers won’t be an option.

Another consideration is the type of floor the washer will be installed on, and its condition.  Top load washing machines are better suited to stump floors especially if the floors are in poor condition. A front load washing machine installed on a stump floor can cause a lot of vibration especially when it spins.  These vibrations can not only be very loud and annoying but also carry the potential to damage your floor, and exacerbate existing damage.  Top load washing machines are gentler on stump floors, with front load washing machines being better suited to concrete slab floors.

Cost and Longevity

Front Load Washing Machines

Front load washing machines tend to be more expensive upfront. However, their efficiency can lead to cost savings over time. They also typically offer more settings and features than top loaders, providing a more customizable laundry experience. Durability varies, but front loaders often have a longer lifespan due to their gentle washing action. Front load washing machines also tend to have better resale values, going for around 30-40% of their new price depending on condition.

Top Load Washing Machines​

Top load washing machines have historically had a lower purchase price than front load washing machines but some current models are more than double the price of an equivalent front load washing machines. In some respects they have become more of a premium item, for those who can afford the space to have them. They are generally less expensive to repair, making them attractive to budget-conscious families, but due to their low resale value of 10-20% of their new price, you’re usually better off finding a reputable used model with a warranty and replacing the machine.

Top load washing machines can be more durable, with some models lasting many years with minimal issues. However, the cost savings on the purchase price might be offset by higher water and energy bills, more wear on fabrics and a lower resale value if you need to sell it.

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How to Move a Washing Machine: A Comprehensive Guide from an Appliance Removalist Specialist

Moving a washing machine can seem daunting, but with the right know-how, it’s a task you can handle with confidence. As an appliance delivery professional at Whybuy, I move washing machines every day. My experience has taught me the ins and outs of safely transporting these essential household appliances. Here, I’ll share with you the in depth steps and precautions you need to take to ensure a smooth move. I recommend you read this guide from start to finish before you attempt your move, sometimes you may want to proceed with one step before another, or you’ll pick up a tip later in the guide you may want to use earlier.

A Fisher Paykel front loader washing machine on a movers trolley on a white background

Uninstalling a Washing Machine

Find the Taps and Turn Them Off

Generally the taps will be directly behind the washing machine or in a cupboard next to the washing machine. If you have a dryer stacked on top of your washer you may need to bring it down to access the taps. 

Disconnecting the water inlet hoses

Method 1: Remove the Hoses to Minimise Mess

Sometimes it can be quite difficult to remove the water inlet hoses, especially if they haven’t been disconnected in years. To detach the inlet hoses, you will need to turn the fitting counterclockwise, as viewed from the back of the hose. If minimising water spillage is a priority, begin by disconnecting the hose fitting at the lowest point. This approach allows for more effective management of the release of trapped water. By disconnecting only one end of the hose initially, the water remaining in the hose will stay contained due to air pressure and vacuum formation, provided you handle it gently. Removing the lowest connection first offers more flexibility in choosing where to release the trapped water. After detaching one end of the hose, lower it into a sink, the washing machine, a drain, bucket or bowl – ensuring it is positioned at a lower elevation than the still-attached end of the hose. Then, proceed to unscrew the still-attached end of the hose; the trapped water should flow out in a controlled manner.

Once the hoses are removed its important to check the taps are not leaking. Because they are seldom turned off, they often seize up and become difficult to turn off properly or a drip goes unnoticed because it cannot leak while the hose is attached to it. Ideally you should cap off the water supply taps with a 20mm (3/4”) female pipe cap with a rubber washer inside before vacating the property to avoid damage from a leaking tap on the floor, or turn off the water at the mains when you leave.

Method 2: For Removing Stubborn Hoses

Sometimes containing water spillage isn’t a priority, especially when the hose refuses to budge or if you cannot access the hoses from the back of the machine. Particularly for under bench installations you may bee to remove the hoses from the taps first, as you cannot access the hoses on the back of the machine and you cannot pull the washer out from underneath the bench as the hoses are not long enough.

If you’re facing a stubborn hose, it’s crucial first to ensure you’re turning it the correct way. You should be directly facing the connection from behind it and then turn it counterclockwise. If you’re viewing the connection from above, side on, or directly in front, and you’re turning it counterclockwise from your perspective, you might actually be tightening it further. A helpful trick if you’re uncertain is to use a socket wrench, if available. Set it to turn counterclockwise, position it behind the fitting as though you’re about to use it for removal, and then turn. This method can help you orient yourself and ensure you are indeed loosening the fitting.

If you’ve confirmed you’re turning the right way but still face difficulty, it’s likely the hose has been over-tightened. Over time, hoses can become even tighter than when first installed. This issue is often compounded by the rubber washer inside the fitting adhering to both the hose and the inlet valve on the machine, creating a seal you need to break. Additionally, the water pressure within the hose can further secure it in place. If removal proves challenging, start with the hose end that’s more accessible. Loosening one end can make removing the other end significantly easier by releasing the water pressure in the hose. If manual efforts fail, it’s time to use a tool. A self-adjusting, pipe, or strap wrench can efficiently handle the task.

For those without tools or a preference not to purchase them, there’s another technique, albeit with some risk of damaging the hose. Washing machine hose ends typically differ—one is straight, and the other has a 90-degree plastic elbow, which is usually connected to the washing machine’s back. However, it can be found on either the tap or the machine’s back. By gripping both the elbow and the hose’s rotational end and turning counterclockwise, you can gain the leverage needed to loosen the hose. After turning as much as possible, hold the rotational part to prevent it from tightening and twist the elbow clockwise with your other hand. Repeat these steps until the hose is loose enough for removal. Be cautious, as this method may lead to breaking the plastic elbow, damaging the rubber washers, or the hose itself.

Inspect and Clean the Hoses

Once removed, inspect the hoses for signs of wear, such as cracking or damage. Hoses older than five years, or those showing signs of damage such as cracking or wear, should likely be discarded. Within one end of the hose, you should find a small filter screen. This is an ideal time for an inspection, especially if your water comes from a tank, you have old rusty pipes, or your water supply is prone to dirt. If the filter is clogged with debris, a toothbrush and soapy water can often clean it effectively. Alternatively, soaking the hose end in a bleach solution for a few hours may dissolve the debris, but be cautious as this can damage the metal coupler connecting the hose to the fittings.

The filter is typically removable but handle it with care, it’s usually made of plastic, and is fragile and prone to breaking. Before removing the filter, the rubber washer must be taken out. Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry under the rubber washer, being cautious not to damage it. Aim to flick the washer out of the fitting. Once removed, a small pair of pliers can usually grasp the flat bar in the middle of the filter, allowing it to be pulled out easily. Alternatively, use the screwdriver to pry the filter out by working it from one of the edges where it meets the body of the hose fitting. However, if the filter is severely blocked after years of use, it might be more practical to replace the hoses entirely rather than attempting cleaning.

Examine the Water Valves

We should also examine the water valves located where the hoses attach to the back of the washing machine. Often, you’ll find an additional screen filter made of metal or plastic in this area. These filters can usually be removed by gently using a pair of pliers to pull on the filter’s tab. Sometimes, you may need to use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the screen. Removing these filters can be a delicate task; they are easily bent or damaged, so proceed with caution. If a filter becomes damaged, the most cost-effective solution might be to source a replacement from a defective valve, potentially with the help of a second-hand appliance repair professional who could offer a budget-friendly option. Alternatively, you might find yourself needing to replace the entire water valve. Running the machine without these filters is not recommended due to the potential for damage to the appliance. Washing machines have these screen filters in their hoses and inlet valves because the water valve mechanisms are fairly delicate pieces of engineering. It only takes a small bit of debris in the wrong spot and the water valve gets jammed open and the washing machine floods. I wouldn’t take the risk.

Disconnecting the Waste Water Hose

The waste water hose or drain hose can usually be identified as a corrugated pipe, which is wider than the inlet hoses. It’s better to disconnect the water inlet hoses before tackling the wastewater hose, as the latter is likely to be slimy and mouldy, particularly towards its end. Removing it first means you’re more likely to touch it more than you need to and spill unsanitary water on yourself, making things yuckier than they need to be. Sometimes though, you might need to disconnect the wastewater hose first to give yourself better access to remove the water inlet hoses.

There are generally two ways this hose is connected to the sewer system: either simply inserted into a standpipe, or a hole in your laundry trough, or hooked over the side of a laundry trough. Ideally it ought to be secured with a plastic U-bend bracket, or it might be connected via a barbed hose connector on the trap (U-bend) of the laundry sink adjacent to the machine. In the first scenario, the hose should pull out with minimal effort. In the second, removing the hose from the trap requires caution to avoid breaking the barbed connector, necessitating replacing the trap.

Removing the Drain Hose from a Barbed Connector on the Trap

Method 1: Try this First

The drain hose is typically secured with a clamp. Examine the clamp to determine whether you need a socket, flathead screwdriver, or Phillips screwdriver to loosen it. Turn the clamp screw counterclockwise to loosen. This step can be tricky as the clamp may rotate, requiring you to hold it steady while unscrewing, ideally without stabbing yourself with the screwdriver.

Once the clamp is loose, slide it down the pipe to access the seal between the drain hose and the barbed connector. The hose usually has adhered to the connector over time, making the seal difficult to break. Exercise care at this stage to avoid snapping the connector. Avoid yanking the hose; instead, try twisting the end of the hose to break the seal, being careful not to twist from the corrugated section, only the rubberised end. If the hose rotates on the connector, you’ve successfully broken the seal. Gently pull and twist the hose to remove it, being prepared for a small amount of residual yucky water to spill out.

Method 2: For Stubborn Drain Hoses

If the above proves difficult, another method involves using a flathead screwdriver. Carefully insert the screwdriver under the lip of the drain hose at the connection point, working it further in gently to avoid puncturing the hose.  Ideally you want the screwdriver to go all the way in to the end of the barbed connector, but this might not always be realistic, so just work it in as far as you can. Now lever the hose off by pulling the screwdriver gently outward, and work it in and out a few times as required, each time coming further out. This technique, while counterintuitive for beginners, effectively removes the drain hose without damaging the connector, but does carry risks in damaging the drain hose, which might not matter particularly, if at the new installation the drainhose will be connected via a standpipe or simple u bend bracket instead.

Sealing the Barbed Connector

Sealing the resultant hole left in the trap by the drain hoses removal is crucial to prevent leaks if the laundry sink is used. Options, ranging from average to good include sealing with duct tape, a rubber chair leg tip with a hose clamp, silicone sealant, or replacing the trap. When vacating a property, it’s often wiser to do nothing and leave the setup as is, since the next tenant is extremely likely to be installing their own washing machine the same way and your sealing it off just makes their life needlessly difficult. It’s wise to inform the landlord though to mitigate your liability and advise against using the sink.

Snapped Off the Barbed Connector - What Now?

If you’ve accidentally snapped the barbed connector on the sink trap, it’s usually not a major issue. Older traps are more likely to break due to the PVC they’re constructed of becoming more brittle with time. For newer homes, the trap is typically a standard component that can be easily replaced for under $10 at most plumbing or hardware stores. In cases involving older sewage systems where the correct part is no longer available, a plumber may need to modify the sinks drainage for a new trap. Alternatives for a temporary fix include using self-fusing silicone tape or silicone, or attempting a repair with PVC cement, though such repairs are unlikely to withstand reconnection of a drain hose in the future.

Stowing the Drain Hose

Securing the drain hose properly is ideal to prevent the spillage or syphoning of dirty water during relocation. Allowing the drain hose to drag on the floor almost guarantees water leakage. Many washing machines are equipped with specially designed clips on their backs for securing the drain hose. If these clips are unavailable or damaged, a practical solution is to secure both the drain hose and the power cable together. Create a ‘U’ shape with the drain hose just above the top of the washing machine, then wrap the power cord around this loop. Use a secure knot, such as a half hitch, or cable ties to keep it in place.

Draining the water from the machine for long term storage (front loader washers only)

Draining water from your front loader washing machine is a crucial step if it won’t be used for a month or more, particularly to prevent mould growing on and around the rubber door boot. However, the process requires careful consideration to avoid potential problems.

Don't Drain Top Loader Washing Machines

For top loader washing machines, unfortunately, there’s no straightforward method to drain any remaining water. While it might be tempting to tip the washer onto its side to remove some of the water, this approach often leads to more problems than solutions. Such an action can result in water and dirt coating internal components, such as the suspension system and control boards, which could lead to damage. Additionally, the drum might dent the case during this process, far from an ideal outcome. This method risks damaging the machine and is unlikely to remove all the trapped water, potentially leading to further issues down the line. A top loader washing machine is unlikely to leak during transport unless it is tipped over, so long as the drain hose has been properly secured, and isn’t laid on the ground which can lead to the water syphoning out of the machine.

When to Remove the Drain Pump Filter

Some sources recommend removing the drain pump filter to eliminate any residual water in the machine, preventing it from leaking onto other items during relocation. We would suggest this is bad advice, because it often causes more problems than it solves for the uninitiated. You should only remove the filter to prevent mould growth if the machine will not be used for longer than a month: if the machine will be placed in long-term storage, if the machine is being shipped internationally, or if the machine exhibits issues with draining slowly or not at all, indicating a blockage in the filter or an obstruction in the drain pump. 

Risks of Not Draining the Machine

Opting not to drain the water from the machine carries its own problems, but they’re easier for a novice to manage. Failure to remove residual water can affect the machine’s water level sensors, leading to misreadings and potential overflows. This is especially crucial for front loaders, as overflows can damage the bearings—an expensive problem often not worth the repair cost. Upon reinstallation, closely monitor the machine during its initial fill cycle. For front loader machines, stop the cycle if water levels rise above a third of the machine’s door; for top loaders, stop if it exceeds the pre-set water level. Switch the cycle to ‘spin’ before commencing a new cycle and repeating the above. You should only need to do this once, then the machine should fill correctly on the second attempt, but a third may be required. Once the machine has stopped filling at the correct height and the wash cycle has commenced, the risk has passed.

Removing the Drain Pump Filter

Accessing the drain pump filter typically involves opening a small flap or door on the lower left or right side of the washer. Opening this reveals the filter’s front, which unscrews counterclockwise. Be prepared with a towel, as unscrewing the filter will release water trapped at the machine’s bottom. However, removing the filter isn’t always straightforward. Obstructions like coins, bobby pins and screws can jam the filter, making it difficult to remove completely or reinsert. In some cases, the filter’s turning mechanism may break off when you try and loosen a very tight filter, necessitating a replacement. Should the filter become jammed halfway through removal, and you’ve confirmed it’s fully unscrewed, use a long screwdriver to wedge it out. Position it between the filter housing and the inner front face of the filter. Carefully lever the screwdriver to wedge the filter out. Be aware that applying substantial force may be necessary and could lead to the filter breaking.

Again – We advise against tampering with the filter unless necessary, to avoid the inconvenience of needing a replacement during a move. Leave cleaning the filter for another day when you have the time and space to deal with a mishap. If the filter cannot be reinstalled properly prior to removal and transport, it will almost certainly leak water. While the quantity may not be substantial—perhaps a few hundred millilitres – it could be sufficiently dirty to stain carpets and fabrics. However, if the filter is left undisturbed, the likelihood of any leakage is minimal.

Using the Pump Outlet Hose for Draining

Adjacent to the filter, there’s usually a small rubber oumo outlet hose with an inserted cap. This hose offers a safer and more controlled alternative for draining water from the machine. Again we don’t recommend draining the water unless the washing machine will not be used for a month or more. Placing a tub or bowl below and removing the cap allows the water to flow out freely. This method is not without risks—the hose inside the washer is often intentionally kinked, requiring a moderate pull to straighten and facilitate water flow. Pulling too hard could damage the hose, necessitating replacement, and leaving a leaky washing machine to transport in the interim, while not pulling hard enough might prevent water from draining. If you have to drain the water from the machine prior to moving, use this method, and save removing and cleaning the filter for a day when you have time to deal with any issues.

In general, there’s seldom a need to remove water from the washing machine unless it will not be used for a month or more. Always ensure the caps for both the filter and the rubber hose are securely replaced before moving the machine to prevent any leakage.

Initially Moving the Washing Machine

With the washing machine now prepped and ready for relocation, it’s time to initiate the move. The first step involves maneuvering it out of its current position to a spot where a moving trolley or dolly can be easily positioned beneath it. A common challenge at this stage is the tendency of the washing machine’s rubber feet to adhere to the floor, complicating the initial effort to move it.

To overcome this, start by gently tilting the washing machine backward, ensuring you’re cautious not to damage the wall or any surrounding area. This action should help break the front feet free from their sticky grip on the floor. Next, carefully tilt the machine towards you—again, be mindful not to tip it over entirely. This movement aims to dislodge the back feet in a similar manner.

After the washing machine’s feet are freed, we must select the appropriate technique for moving it. The “walking” method, which involves a careful, rocking motion to shift the machine’s weight from side to side in small, measured steps, is highly recommended over dragging. This approach not only protects both the machine and the flooring but also offers superior maneuverability through tight spaces and around corners. However, walking the appliance comes with its challenges, such as the risk of accidentally slamming a corner of the washer into a wall and the difficulty in controlling the heavy appliance, as well as the risk of injury, particularly for those of us who are not specialised appliance movers.

Dragging the washing machine can lead to undesirable marks, scratches, or deeper gouges in your flooring, a risk that’s particularly pronounced with delicate surfaces like hardwood or vinyl. Additionally, the rubber coating on the washing machine’s feet may have worn down to bare metal over time, especially if the machine has been dragged before, further increasing the likelihood of floor damage. Dragging can cause the rubber coating on the feet to partially peel off, resulting in the washing machine sitting unevenly and making it challenging to adjust when reinstalled. 

Despite the potential for damage, there are situations where dragging might be unavoidable, such as when the washing machine is positioned in a tight spot under a bench. In such cases, the best approach is to slightly tilt the machine, open the door, and firmly grasp the front face of the machine at the top of the seal to pull it out. This method minimises the risk of damage by reducing the friction and opportunities for a foot to get caught.

A selection of washing machine feet damaged from dragging compared to a brand new washing machine foot

Installing the Transit Bolts (optional)

When moving a washing machine, whether you need to use transit bolts or shipping bolts depends on the type of machine and how far you’re moving it. Transit bolts are special screws that keep the inside parts of a front loader washing machine from moving around too much when you’re moving it. 

Transit Bolts and Toploader Washing Machines

Top loader machines don’t use these bolts. You can insert blankets between the drum and case for protection, but this method is often more trouble than it’s worth. The blankets are likely to slip out, and the tipping the washer on its side to install them from underneath is more likely to cause the exact damage we were trying to avoid in the first place – the drum causing dents in the case due to excessive movement.

Installing Transit Bolts

Transit bolts are designed for front loader washing machines to secure the drum during transportation. My professional advice, based on daily handling of these appliances, is nuanced. For short distances, especially within the same premises or nearby, you probably don’t need to install the transit bolts. However, for longer moves, particularly interstate or international relocations, securing the machine with transit bolts is wise to prevent any potential damage from rough handling or emergency braking.

Front loaders rely on a suspension system comprising two springs at the top and 2-3 shock absorbers at the base, with transit bolts designed primarily to prevent the springs from detaching. A detached spring will lead to drum misalignment, visible as a distorted door seal and an off-centre drum visible through the door. If the machine is operated like this it can cause damage. While fixing detached springs might be straightforward for professionals and doable for amateurs, preventing such issues with transit bolts is simpler and safer. Using transit bolts also helps the machine move more steadily on a trolley because the drum inside won’t shift around and change the balance as you’re moving it.

If you’re just moving the washing machine a short way, like to a new home in the same city, you probably don’t need to worry about the transit bolts, especially if you’ve lost them or never had them. They’re mainly to stop things from going wrong if the machine tips over, so just take precautions to stop the machine tipping over. If you’re moving further afield though it’s a good idea to use them to keep your machine safe. If you want to know more about transit bolts, steps to take to prevent the machine tipping, and the installation and removal of transit bolts, we’ve written a full guide here.

Packing and Moving a Washing Machine

Finally we’re ready to move this washer! Ideally you want a moving trolley to move the washer out. It is advisable to wait until the washing machine is outside and ready to be loaded onto the delivery vehicle before wrapping it in a moving blanket or bubble wrap. This prevents the material from unravelling and causing accidents, especially when navigating stairs. When using a trolley, use a trolley with plastic protectors or place a piece of cardboard between the machine and the trolley to avoid paint marks transferring from the trolley onto the washing machine.

Using a Trolley

A moving trolley is the best method for safely transporting a washing machine, particularly if stairs are involved. You may want to secure the machine to the trolley with a ratchet strap or rope, taking care to position the strap to avoid scratching the appliance’s paint. This may not be practical if your move has lots of corners and you need to keep taking the washing machine on and off the trolley to manoeuvre it. For top loaders, trolley the machine from the back so that any cabinet damage Is more likely to be on the back and hidden once reinstalled. For front loaders, lift from the sides for better stability, especially if you have not used transit bolts.

Once outside exercise be wary of dips and bumps they can easily destablise your load. Be particular caution when navigating gutters and curbs at an angle, as this poses a high risk of tipping the appliance over and causing a mishap. If a tailgate lifter is available, simply place the washer on it. Otherwise, if the vehicle is low enough and you’re using a trolley, approach the vehicle so the washer’s legs are just above the vehicle’s platform edge. Then, carefully tilt and walk or slide the washer into the vehicle, ensuring not to trip over the trolley as it’s released to the ground. For vehicles too high without a lifter, enlist the help of another person to lift the washer into the vehicle. The technique for manual lifting is detailed in the “Carrying by Hand” section below.

Navigating Stairs

Don't Use a Stairclimber Trolley

Using a stairclimber trolley for moving appliances on stairs is not recommended due to two significant issues. Firstly, it doesn’t allow for breaks during the ascent or descent; once you start moving, you must continue until reaching flat ground, eliminating any opportunity for adjusting grip or resting. Secondly, stairclimber trolleys are too long. Adding a washing machine extends the trolley’s total length, making it too long to fit on stair landings and navigate turns, potentially causing you to get stuck between a step and a wall.

Use a Regular Trolley

Opt for a regular trolley with rubber wheels and air filled tyres and, if necessary, have someone assist by taking some of the weight, allowing for safer, step-by-step navigation. Exercise caution and treat the task with the respect it deserves, considering the real danger involved and the surprisingly high number of stair-related accidents annually. Ensure the stronger individual is positioned underneath to better control the washer in case of any mishaps. In this scenario, the best way to prevent injury where the top person is incapacitated is for the person below the washer to secure the washer by lowering their knee and thigh against the bottom of the washer and pressing the trolley wheels into the back corner of the step, laying the trolley down on the stairs. If the bottom person is incapacitated the top person may simply sit down on the stairs pulling the trolley wheel into the back corner of the stair and holding it there with the trolley resting on their knees.

Moving a Washing Machine Upstairs with a Trolley

  • Teamwork is Essential: Moving a washing machine upstairs requires two people for safety and efficiency. Position one person above the washer and the other beneath.
    Securing the Washer: If the washing machine is not strapped to the trolley, the individual pushing from below must be cautious not to apply excessive force, which could dislodge the washer from the trolley.
  • Clear Roles and Communication: Designate one person as the leader to coordinate the move. This person will count “1, 2, 3,” and on “3,” the person at the bottom pushes while the person at the top pulls. Take breaks to rest and regroup, ensuring everyone’s safety and maintaining energy for the task.
  • Navigating Landings and Taking Breaks: As you near a landing, be aware that the person at the top risks being squeezed between the wall and the trolley. This stage requires particular care and finesse to safely navigate.

Moving a Washing Machine Downstairs with a Trolley​

  • Using Gravity: When moving the washer downstairs, gravity will assist in the process, potentially reducing the need for additional help. However, a second person positioned below the washer can provide stability and share the load.
  • Controlled Movement with Excellent Timing: Approach each step with caution. As the trolley reaches the edge of a step, pull back and take the weight to ease the washer down, minimising the impact of the descent.
  • Maintaining Alignment: Ensure the trolley is aligned straight with each step. An angled approach can increase the risk of wobbling or losing control.
  • Safety Precautions for the Helper below: If someone is assisting from below, and the washer is not strapped to the trolley, they should be careful not to lift the washer off the trolley. Watch for hazards like walls or railings that could injure hands, especially as the washer might shift, bounce or roll upon impacting each step.

Carrying by Hand

If a trolley isn’t available, manually carrying the washing machine is an alternative, though it’s important to note they are heavy: a front loader typically ranges from 70-90kg, and a top loader from 30-50kg. This task requires two physically fit individuals, preferably wearing gloves or having durable hands. 

Carrying a Front Loader Washing Machine

Start by removing the soap dispenser drawer for a secure grip with one hand, while the other hand should grasp the back corner of the machine near the water inlet. Avoid lifting the appliance by its top or lid, as it is usually secured with only two screws through plastic mounts and cannot bear much weight. Once the machine is angled for movement, the second person should grip the machine’s feet at the front and back closest to them. These parts may be damp and dirty, making gloves advisable for a more comfortable grip. Once outside, set the washer down beside the delivery vehicle for a brief rest before the next stage of lifting.

Carrying a Top Loader Washing Machine

Start by securing the lid with some electrical tape.  Electrical tape won’t leave difficult to remove residue like other tapes and is easily removed following transport. Now tilt the washing machine backwards with one person holding the washer from the back.  Now the second person should reach underneath the washer from the front and lift it up.  Spiders often like to live in this spot so gloves are advised to prevent any panic dropping of the machine.

Lifting onto a vehicle

Lifting a Front Loader Washing Machine onto a Vehicle

When lifting a frontloader washer onto a vehicle from the side of the vehicle, position it so the front of the washer faces the back of the vehicle. If lifting from the back of the vehicle, position the washer so that one of the sides is facing towards the front of the vehicle. Position one person on each side of the washer. Tilt the washer away from the vehicle, placing one hand on the top side of the washer that’s furthest from the vehicle. Then, with your other hand, grasp the bottom of the washer closest to the vehicle and lift it onto the corner of the vehicle’s platform. Carefully tilt and then walk the appliance onto the vehicle.

Lifting a Top Loader Washing Machine onto a Vehicle​

For top loader washing machines we follow the same procedure as above for a frontloader. If you’re moving a top loader on an open ute, ensure the front of the washing machine is facing backwards and use electrical tape to keep it securely closed. If the lid opens unexpectedly, it could not only be damaged itself but also cause damage to other parts of the washing machine. The lid can easily detach completely and become a dangerous projectile to other road users. 

Vehicle Positioning

Moving a Washing Machine in a Ute or Trailer

To ensure the safe transportation of a washing machine in an open ute, follow these steps to minimise risks and protect your appliance.

  1. Positioning the Washing Machine: Place the washing machine at the front end of the ute’s tray, ensuring it is centrally aligned. The back of the washer should face the cabin. Centring the machine on the tray is vital. Incorrect positioning increases the risk of the washing machine tipping over during cornering.
  2. Securing with Ratchet Straps: Utilise ratchet straps to secure the washing machine from each side of the ute, going over the top of the appliance. Ratchet straps provide additional security against the forces encountered during turns and bumps. However, be aware that ratchet straps can sometimes loosen or break, especially if the washer has not been centred. If the washer hasn’t been centred, a racthet strap actually increases the chances it will tip over during cornering. Therefore, positioning the washer in a way that it has limited movement against the cab at the end of the tray, is recommended.
  3. Preventing Tipping and Movement: The primary concern during transportation is to prevent the washer from tipping over, particularly during sudden stops, which are often beyond the driver’s control. By positioning the washing machine against the wall of the ute’s cabin and ensuring it is centered on the tray, you mitigate the risk of it tipping over. This also helps prevent the appliance from rocking over speed bumps. The correct positioning and the use of straps are crucial in keeping the washer stationary.

Moving a Washing Machine in an Enclosed Truck

When transporting in an enclosed truck, we don’t need to worry about centring the machine or placing it at the front, but the use of ratchet straps is more important. Position the washing machine against any wall of the truck. The back of the washing machine should face the wall, with the front facing towards the interior of the truck.
Secure the washing machine to the truck wall with ratchet straps. Attach the straps to the strapping points and around the front of the washing machine, ensuring they are tight and secure.

Moving a Washing Machine in a Van​

Van is a pretty broad term.  If you have a van that you cannot stand inside without ducking down, this is what we mean.  If you have a full height van with proper ratchet strap points, follow the instructions above for an enclosed truck. 

When transporting in an enclosed van without strapping points your best option is to place it as close to the front of the cargo area as possible, on one side of the van, wedging it on the sides with moving boxes or moving blankets to prevent it tipping over in corners. Drive carefully to avoid the washing machine from moving around, and maintain an awareness that there is a poorly secured 80kg projectile with you in the vehicle.

Moving a Washing Machine in an SUV, Hatchback, or Station Wagon

  1. Protective Measures: Begin by laying a moving blanket over the rear bumper and the loading area to safeguard your vehicle from scratches or dents. This is crucial to maintain the car’s condition.
  2. Upright loading: Attempt to lift the washing machine vertically up and over the threshold into the cargo area. Keeping the machine upright is preferable but not always realistic.
  3. Lay the machine down if needed: If the vehicle’s interior height is insufficient, you may need to lay the washer down. Position front loaders on one of their sides, and you should empty the water from the machine before loading it as described previously to minimise the leakage. Similarly, lay top loaders on their side to prevent control board damage from leaking water. Be prepared for minor water leakage especially with a top loader. Top loaders might have springs disengage, and front loaders could suffer if transit bolts aren’t used. Using transit bolts when transporting a washer on its side is highly recommended to prevent the significant risk of spring detachment.
  4. Ensuring Stability: Push the washing machine far enough into the vehicle to prevent it from potentially impacting and smashing the rear window upon closing. Use wedges or additional blankets to secure the gap between the washer and the rear of the cargo compartment, ensuring the machine doesn’t slide into the rear windshield during transit. Use blankets to wedge the washing machine on each side and in front of it as well to prevent it moving. Remember you are now driving with a significant projectile in the event of emergency braking, or an accident, so drive carefully!
  5. Post-Transport Care: Once the washing machine is positioned upright at its destination, wait 24 hours before use. This pause allows any moisture that may have come in contact with the electronics to dry, reducing the risk of electrical issues. Top loaders are particularly vulnerable to control board issues if transported on their backs, hence the emphasis on side positioning. However, this does pose a risk of cosmetic damage to the appliance’s cabinet. If a top loader has been transported on its back it is recommended to leave it unplugged for a week or more to minimise the risk of control board damage.

Moving a Washing Machine in a Sedan or Compact Vehicle

Attempting to fit a washing machine into the backseat, front seat, or boot of a sedan or compact car is highly challenging and not recommended. The risks include potential damage to the vehicle, the appliance, and safety concerns due to the appliance acting as a projectile in the event of abrupt stops or accidents. Transporting a washing machine poses a risk of water spillage, which can further complicate the process.

If Attempted Compact Appliances Only

Only very compact models might feasibly fit, and even then, the risks probably outweigh the benefits. Consider the potential for damage to the car’s doors and interior.

Reinstalling a Washing Machine after Moving

Once you’ve moved the washing machine to its new location, moving it inside is the reverse of moving it out, and the steps above cover off everything you need. Once you’ve got the washer into the laundry area where it will be installed proceed with the below.

Resetting the feet

When moving a washing machine from one location to another, we ought to reset its 4 feet to ensure it stands stably in its new position. It’s best to do this before moving the washer inside where space is more limited and damage more likely. If we don’t reset the feet at all it just makes it more difficult to get it stable when inside.

Firstly, it’s worth noting that some washing machines, particularly top loader washers, come equipped with self-adjusting feet, which automatically level the machine once it’s placed on the ground and started. For these models, manual adjustment isn’t necessary. However, for the vast majority of washers without this feature, you’ll need to manually reset the feet. Check your manual or Google your model if you are unsure.

Most washing machines have adjustable feet often with a lock nut, which can be turned clockwise or counter-clockwise to raise or lower each corner of the machine. All feet should be wound back into the machine as much as possible and should rotate freely.

A selection of damaged and rusted washing machine feet some with seized locknuts (above), comapred to a brand new washing machine foot with lock nut (below)

Brand new washing machines typically have feet and lock nuts that spin easily by hand. However, the feet on older machines may seize or rust into place, requiring a spanner or wrench to break the corrosion. When using a spanner or wrench use it on the lock nut of you can, using tools on the rubber feet is likely to damage them. It’s not uncommon for a lock nut to have seized or rusted completely to the foot of the washer, and often there’s nothing you can do other than replace it. For a temporary fix you should move the affected foot to the front of the machine. If you have two or more feet with seized locknuts move them to one side of the machine, you don’t want them diagonally opposite each other. If you are unable to adjust a foot or remove it, its usually not a big deal, we just need to be aware of it and work around it. The fewer feet we can adjust, the harder it will be to get our washing machine stable when it is inside. 

Tips to Make Foot Removal Easier

  • If transporting the washer in a ute or truck, position it so two feet hang off the edge – being cautious to prevent the washer from falling – providing easy access to loosen them. Rotate the machine 180 degrees and repeat. 
  • If the washer needs to be laid down at any point, this also presents a good opportunity to adjust the feet. Alternatively, having someone tilt the washer on a hand trolley can offer convenient access for adjustment. 
  • If you need to lay the washer down at any point, that’s also a great opportunity to do it, or you can have one person tilting the washer on a hand trolley as well to give you access.

Transit Bolt Removal

Remove any transit bolts used during the move.  Check out our guide here.

Positioning Your Washing Machine

  • Proximity to Connections: Select a spot for your washing machine that’s near the necessary water, drainage, and electrical connections. Usually it is evident where the washing machine is intended to be installed.
  • Stable Flooring Is Key: The importance of a stable foundation cannot be overstated. Avoid placing your washer on carpet or any soft flooring. A solid floor (it needn’t be level we can fix that later) is essential to minimise vibration and ensure smooth operation. Inspect the floor area for any signs of wear or rot, particularly if you’re installing in an older home. A slow leak from a washing machine can cause significant damage over time, make sure you don’t get blamed for previous damage as a tenant by reporting any damage to the landlord now.

Planning Your Connection

In most cases, the installation is straightforward—the taps are directly above the washing machine’s intended spot, and the drain hose simply feeds into a nearby laundry trough. Very little planning may be required and we can proceed to the next step. For more complex European Laundry or under-bench installations, a bit more planning may be needed. If the water and power connections are located in a cupboard adjacent to the washing machine’s location, consider the following steps:

  1. Power Cord First: Run the power cord through to the connection point first. The plug is bulky, but the cord itself is thin, making it easier to maneuver through tight spaces, and hard to fit the plug through if you route the other hoses first.
  2. Attach and Route Hoses: Connect the water hoses to the back of the washing machine before threading them through to the taps. You won’t have access to the back of the washing machine if it is going under a bench. Standard water inlet hoses are around 1 metre in length, if you find yours is not long enough you can buy longer hoses without much trouble.
  3. Drain Hose Last: After the water hoses are in place, thread the drain hose through. This sequence allows you to ensure that all components fit through the necessary spaces without obstruction. If you find your washing machine drain hose is too short its usually a relatively simple job to lengthen it with a couple of hose clamps a barbed connector and an additional length of drain hose.
  4. Avoid Hose Kinking: Be particularly vigilant to avoid kinking the inlet hoses in under bench installations. Braided hoses, are more prone to kinking compared to rubber hoses. A kinked hose will impede water flow and usually result in the washer not filling. If you can connect both ends of the hose loosely before tightening this helps avoid kinking.  Additionally once the water is on and the hose is pressurised it is less likely to kink.
  5. Securing the Connections: With under-bench installations, once the washer is in place, inspecting and tightening the inlet hose connections on the back of the machine can be challenging due to limited access. Ensure these connections are secure during the initial installation to prevent leaks.

Connecting the Taps to Your Washing Machine:

Begin with the washing machine positioned a short distance from the wall. This allows easy access for making necessary connections. Initially, loosely connect the water hoses to the corresponding taps. Ensure not to kink the hoses during attachment; braided hoses are particularly prone to this compared to rubber hoses.

Identifying Hot from Cold

To identify the hot water supply if the taps aren’t labelled, attach a hose to one tap and direct it into a sink or bucket. After a few minutes, check the water temperature. The hot water hose, usually marked with red, should connect to the hot water inlet, while the blue hose is for cold water. Remember, the hot water hose is usually rated at 70 degrees celcius with the cold water hose typically rated to 25 degrees celsius and may burst if mistakenly used for hot water. Good quality hoses should be stamped with this information, but you may need to revert to the convention of blue is cold and red is hot.

Securing the Connections

Once the hoses are correctly identified and connected loosely to the taps, securely tighten the fittings to the correct inlet on the washer, before tightening the hoses at the taps. The inlet valves are usually coloured orange or red for the hot water hose and blue or white for the cold water connection. If you have a washing machine with only a cold water inlet this process is a lot simpler. Its desirable to avoid unnecessary leaks and spills; a dry area will help you spot any potential leaks more easily.

Turn on the taps and carefully inspect for leaks, listening for any hissing sounds that indicate a water leak. Taking a break and checking again after an hour can help ensure no delayed leaks appear from the tap or hose connections.

Addressing Leaks

It’s not uncommon for the hot water tap, especially if unused for a while, to leak from the top. Many front loader washing machines have only a cold water connection which sees the hot water tap go unused for long periods of time. This could be due to dried out rubber O-rings and seals. Operating the tap a few times might lubricate the seals enough to stop leaks.

Should you find a leak in the hose connections, never using Teflon tape, as it will make things worse. Instead, check the tightness of the connections and the condition of the rubber washers. Hoses should be snug but not overly tightened, and never require tools like pliers or wrenches for installation. If leaks persist, consider replacing the hoses or the worn washers as detailed earlier. Washing machine hoses should be replaced every 5 years.

Connecting the Drain Hose

The drain hose can be connected to the home’s sewage system in several ways, including a stand pipe, a hole in the laundry sink, a barbed connection on the laundry sink trap, or directly into the laundry sink if no special arrangement exists. Before proceeding, verify that any existing hole in the laundry sink is actually connected to the sewage system to avoid water simply draining onto the cabinet floor. Sometimes what looks like the drainage hole might not actually be connected, its important to verify.

Use a Hose Outlet U Bracket

Always use a hose outlet U bracket to secure the hose in place except for direct connections to a trap. While it might seem unnecessary, and you can often seemingly get away without one, failing to use one can lead to the hose dislodging and potentially causing a flood. This simple step can prevent significant water damage.

Maintaining an Air Gap

When connecting the drain hose, ensure there is an air gap between the end of the hose and any standing water in a pipe. When inserting the washing machine drain hose into a dedicated hole ion a laundry sink you don’t want to keep shoving it down as far as you can. A gap is essential to prevent possible sewage backflow into the washing machine, which is undesirable for obvious reasons.

Connecting to a Barbed Connector

Advice for Front Loader Washing Machines

In cases where the drain hose connects to a barbed connector on the trap under the sink, it’s important to check if the connector is open. From factory these connectors are usually sealed, requiring you to drill them out before use. If there is no washing machine drain hose connected to the barbed connector, anytime the sink is used water will leak out at this point. Confirm the connector is open by probing with a long, thin tool like a flathead screwdriver. If the connector is sealed it will need to be drilled open. It’s easier to remove the U-bend and drill it out in most cases. Once the drain hole is confirmed as open, the drain hose should just slide onto the connector. Push it down as far as it will go then secure it with a hose clamp for a reliable connection. While cable ties can serve in a pinch, hose clamps are recommended for reliability. While connecting the drain hose, you may need to push the washer closer to its final position to ensure the hose reaches without strain. When doing so, try to walk the washer back instead of sliding it to avoid damaging your floor or the machine’s feet.

Advice for Top Loader Washing Machines​

Top loader washing machines usually have a different type of drain hose that does not lend itself to being connected to barbed connectors.  It is possible to make a connection using a lot of Teflon tape, but it may not be the most reliable.  Consider semi permanently siliconing the hose in place in these cases, or finding a replacement drain hose solution designed to seal over a barbed connection.

Plugging in the Washing Machine

This process is straightforward but requires attention to certain details to avoid potential risks. 

Considering Powerboard and Double Adapter Use

Directly plug your washing machine into a wall outlet where you can. Double adapters pose a significant and real risk of fire, especially when a clothes dryer is the second appliance on the double adaptor. The primary concern with double adapters is that running a washer and dryer simultaneously will overload the adapter and the outlet, using double the rated power in most cases.

If a powerboard is used, choose one with overload protectors to mitigate fire risk. However, be aware that this setup may lead to frequent trips of the overload protector if both the washer and dryer are used together, as they are both likely to use close to the boards rated power output individually.

Extension Cord Use

You can use an extension cord but never use an extension cord with a double adaptor. This is a house fire waiting to happen.

Upgrading the Wall Outlet

Instead of using a powerboard or double adaptor, consider upgrading from a single to a double outlet. This task, which is relatively minor for a professional electrician, can prevent overloading issues and eliminate the need for potentially hazardous adapters and powerboards.

Positioning the Washing Machine

With the washing machine plugged in, it’s time to position it in its designated spot. Preferably, move the appliance by walking it to its final position. Sliding is an alternative if necessary, but it should be done with care, and you can expect marks on your floor. Usually rubber marks can be removed from a tile floor with a cream cleanser like Jif. Don’t turn on the washing machine at the wall yet, unless the power point will be obstructed by the washing machine when it is in place. We have a few more things to do.

Leveling the Washing Machine

Once in place, we want to make sure the machine is stable. A perfectly level machine is less important than one that doesn’t rock or move. Put away your level and simply visually inspect the machine. If it doesn’t appear noticeably on a lean front or back, it’s usually adequate. What we care about is stability, we don’t want it rocking.

Checking for Movement

To test stability, apply gentle pressure to opposite corners of the top of the machine (one front corner and one diagonal back corner) and attempt to rock it. Repeat this process for the other set of diagonal corners. Any movement or rocking indicates that adjustments are needed.

Adjusting the Feet

If you detect movement, the machine’s feet require adjustment. Generally, adjustments are only necessary on one of the front feet. Properly adjusted feet contribute to a quieter spin cycle, avoiding excessive noise or movement during operation. Typically, there’s no need to adjust the back feet if you’ve already reset all feet to their initial positions after the previous installation as covered previously. Adjust the relevant front foot by turning it counter clockwise until the machine is stable, with no discernible movement when you apply pressure. Once you’ve got the machine sitting correctly adjust the locknuts so that they sit against the base of the washer.  If your locknuts are seized and this is not an option, the machine should be ok, but it’s worth keeping an eye on. Resist the temptation to chock the machine especially with cardboard or other soft materials, it rarely lasts long – replacement feet are relatively inexpensive and worth buying if required.

Final Checks and First Use

Before initiating the first use of your washing machine, completing a series of final checks is essential to ensure everything is set up correctly and to avoid potential issues.

Powering On and Leak Inspection

If you haven’t already, switch the machine on at the power point. Conduct a final inspection of the inlet hoses and their connections to ensure there are no leaks.

Drain Pump Filter Check for Front Loaders

For front loader washing machines, ensure that the drain pump filter and its rubber washer are clean. If you’ve removed the filter—which we advised against earlier—reinstall it carefully to avoid leaks. To reinstall the drain pump filter you usually need to align it with two tabs to insert it and then screw it in. It should screw in clockwise until you feel a very definite stop. If it feels very tight and you’re having trouble turning it this is usually the result of an obstruction in the filter housing, or a pinched rubber washer on the filter itself. A pinched rubber washer will result in a bad seal. Usually if the rubber washer is pinching the only solution is to buy a new filter, the washers are generally not available as a standalone part. When the washer has filled with water monitor the drain pump filter for leakage, it’s a very common point of leaks if you have removed and reinstalled the filter.

Running a Short Cycle

Turn the machine on and select a short wash cycle without adding any detergent. This initial run will help you identify any immediate issues with the setup without the complication of suds.

Monitoring During First Fill

Pay close attention during the machine’s initial fill cycle to prevent overflow, especially if you followed our advice earlier and transported the washer without draining the washer. An air pocket in the pressure system can mislead the washers control board about its water level, leading to excessive filling and overflowing. For front loaders, stop the cycle if water levels exceed one third of the door window. For top loaders, stop if water surpasses the pre-set level. Then, switch to a spin cycle before attempting a new cycle. Usually this issue resolves on the first attempt, but you may need to repeat this process once or twice until the machine fills correctly and proceeds with the wash cycle as expected.

Checking Drainage and Monitoring for Leaks

Ensure that the drain water is properly exiting into the designated drainage point and not ending up on your floor. Vigilantly check for any leaks or drips from the machine, using a flashlight to inspect underneath it. If you discover leaks that you can’t immediately resolve, it’s prudent to turn off the supply hoses and allow the area and machine to dry out completely. This pause helps distinguish between actual leaks and residual water from installation. The most common leak points when reinstalling a washing machine are the taps, the hose connections and the pump filter.  It’s unlikely that the machine has been damaged in transport and is leaking internally. If leaks persist again after a few days waiting and you cannot find anything obvious, consider consulting a professional for a diagnosis.

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Transit Bolts (Shipping Bolts) for Front Loader Washing Machines: Do you Need Them?

Four Fisher Paykel transit bolts arranged in a quarter circle

As an appliance delivery specialist at Whybuy, I’ve moved countless front loader washers and have a wealth of experience regarding the best practices for transporting appliances. One common facet I’ve dealt with daily is the use of transit bolts – those crucial (or not so crucial) components can play a significant role in the safe transport of washing machines. Through this guide, I aim to demystify transit bolts, answering common questions and sharing insights from my daily experiences.

Four Fisher Paykel transit bolts arranged in a quarter circle

What Are Transit Bolts (Shipping Bolts) and Why Are They Important?

Transit bolts, or shipping bolts, play a crucial role in safeguarding the drum of front loader washing machines during transportation. Typically, the drum of a front loader is suspended by two springs from the top and supported by two to three shock absorbers at the base. The main function of these transit bolts is to prevent the springs from becoming unhooked. If a spring detaches, the drum will no longer be properly secured to the machine’s case, leading to noticeable misalignment when viewed through the door, with the seal appearing dislodged and the drum seeming incorrectly positioned. Operating the machine in such a state risks damaging not only the seal and the door but potentially other components as well. Although reattaching any dislodged springs is a relatively straightforward task for a professional and manageable for an experienced DIYer, taking measures to prevent these issues from occurring in the first place is more desirable.

Are Transit Bolts Universal?

Transit bolts are not universal. Their design, including length, width and threading, varies significantly between different washing machine models and manufacturers. If you intend on using transit bolts, use the correct ones for your machine or you’re better off not using transit bolts at all.

Do I Need Transit Bolts to Move My Front Loader?

My professional advice, based on daily handling of these appliances, is nuanced. For short distances, especially within the same premises or nearby, you probably don’t need to install the transit bolts. However, for longer moves, particularly interstate or international relocations, securing the machine with transit bolts is wise to prevent any potential damage from rough handling or emergency braking. However, if you’ve already disposed of the transit bolts, can’t find them, or simply never had them to begin with, my recommendation is to proceed with moving the washing machine without transit bolts. Considering the cost and effort to acquire new bolts against the relatively minor risk of the springs detaching, it’s more practical to go ahead with the move and address any minor issues as they come up. Reattaching a spring is generally a quick task for someone experienced, taking about 20 minutes, assuming there’s no significant damage, which is rare. Any damage that does occur is likely to be minor, such as a crushed plastic part or a disconnected wire.

How to Transport a Washing Machine Without Transit Bolts

Transporting a washing machine without transit bolts isn’t a cause for concern. The primary issue that transit bolts aim to avoid is preventing the springs from dislodging if the washer falls over. So let’s make sure the washer does not fall over. The key to maintaining the appliance upright begins with aligning the door either towards the vehicle’s front or back. Thanks to their design to withstand unbalanced loads, washing machines are more prone to tipping forwards or backwards rather than sideways. This orientation ensures stability even when facing significant forces from turning corners, with the main concerns being sudden deceleration or acceleration, with the main concerns now being sudden deceleration, acceleration, or really big bumps.

Heavy braking is the most significant force you need to concern yourself with. You don’t have a lot of control of when you need to brake heavily and the last thing you want to be thinking about is how hard you can brake before the washer moves. Position the washing machine securely against the front wall of the tray or truck body and/or fasten it firmly with straps or rope. Using straps or ropes is advised as this also safeguards against heavy acceleration and big bumps. If you have no ropes or straps you can get away without them using this method but if you hit a speedbump hard or take off fast, there’s a good chance the machine will move, but these two aspects are much more in the drivers control.

How to Install Transit Bolts

  1. Locate the Bolts: Before moving your front loader washing machine, find the transit bolts that came with your appliance. These are typically found in the original packaging or may have been provided separately by the manufacturer.  They will be long bolts usually with pointy ends and big rubber or plastic washers.
  2. Prepare the Machine: Ensure the washing machine is unplugged and all water connections are disconnected. This prevents any accidental damage or injury during the installation process.
  3. Identify Bolt Locations: Check the back of your washing machine for the bolt holes. Usually there are 3-4 holes.  They are usually marked and located near the outer edges of the machine.  Often they will have little plastic covers over the holes that need to be pryed off before the bolt can be inserted. 
  4. Insert the Bolts: Carefully insert each transit bolt into the designated holes. Depending on your model, there might be three to four bolts. Align them with the hole on the drum inside the cabinet.
  5. Tighten the Bolts: Use an appropriate tool, usually a wrench or socket set, to tighten the bolts. They should be firm enough to hold the drum securely but not overtightened as this could damage the machine.  Gently try to rock the drum and make sure there is no movement of the drum or at the bolts.

How to Remove Transit Bolts

  1. Safety First: Ensure the washing machine is not connected to any power source or water supply before starting the removal process.
  2. Access the Bolts: Move to the back of the washing machine to access the transit bolts.
  3. Loosen the Bolts: Using a wrench or socket set, loosen each bolt by turning it counter-clockwise. Be ready to support the bolt as it comes free to prevent it from falling into the machine or getting lost.
  4. Remove the Bolts Completely: Once loosened, carefully remove each bolt from the machine. It’s a good practice to keep these bolts in a safe place should you need them again for future moves.
  5. Inspect and Secure: With the bolts removed, gently rock the washing machine to ensure the drum moves freely. This confirms the bolts have been successfully removed. Finally, replace any plastic caps back over the transit bolt holes.

What If I Forget to Remove the Transit Bolts?

If transit bolts remain installed after setting up the washing machine, it effectively lacks suspension. This situation can result in the machine shaking intensely or even toppling over. Such movements may cause considerable harm to walls, floors, and likely result in flooding, ultimately risking the destruction of the appliance and your laundry. It’s crucial to removr the transit bolts before using your washing machine.

Can I Damage the Concrete Weights by Transporting Without Transit Bolts?

From my experience, such damage is extremely unlikely. Any force capable of damaging the concrete weights would likely cause significant damage to the washing machine regardless of the bolts’ presence.

In Summary

While my experience at Whybuy has shown that transit bolts are seldom necessary for the kind of movements we undertake daily, understanding their purpose and correct usage is essential for anyone looking to move their washing machine. Should you lose your transit bolts or find yourself in a situation where using them isn’t feasible, remember that careful handling and proper orientation during transport can mitigate most risks. However, for long-distance relocations, I still recommend using them to ensure your appliance arrives in the best condition possible.

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A Sticky Situation: Why You Should Peel Off Appliance Stickers Sooner Rather Than Later, and How to Fix it If you Haven’t

Those energy rating and promotional stickers adorning your appliances might seem like a badge of honour – a testament to your commitment to sustainability or simply a reminder of your savvy shopping. Or perhaps you are worried you might damage your shiny new appliance by trying to take the stickers off, or maybe they just don’t bother you and you’ve never given it much thought. I’m here to share a crucial piece of advice: Remove those stickers while you can! Yes, they may look sleek and informative at first, but they’re actually ticking time bombs of aesthetic displeasure.

The Aesthetic Downfall

Initially, these stickers might serve as a symbol of efficiency and pride. Who doesn’t want to show off their eco-friendly choices, and the newness of their appliances? And sure, they might even bump up the resale value if you’re eyeing the second-hand market. However, these stickers are not designed for longevity. Over time, they degrade, turning from helpful labels into torn and stained blemishes that are a nightmare to remove.

The Removal Ordeal

After a few years, what was once a simple sticker becomes a tenacious tenant on your appliance. Attempting to peel it off transforms into a Herculean task – they tear, and cling to the last slowly wearing your fingernails down to the nub. But that’s not even the worst part.

A Tale of Two Whites

The most upsetting issue arises from the stark contrast between the protected patch of paint beneath the sticker and the rest of the appliance’s surface. Yes, the sticker did a fantastic job of shielding a portion of your appliance from oxidation, leaving a gleaming patch of white, where the rest of the appliance has become a few shades of white closer to yellow.  Usually this would be imperceptible, but thanks to the gleaming patch of white, the whole appliance now looks tired and old. It’s an eyesore that no homeowner deserves.

The Do's and Don'ts of Sticker Removal

Faced with this sticky situation, you might be tempted to reach for strong solvents like isopropyl alcohol, eucalyptus oil, or heaven forbid, acetone. Stop right there! These substances are far too aggressive for the paint finishes and plastic components on your appliances, risking damage that ranges from dulled surfaces to exposed bare metal.   The safe and effective way to tackle this problem is with automotive degreaser in a spray can – your new best friend in the battle against stubborn stickers. A simple spray, a brief wait, and with a bit of luck, you’ll witness the glue dissolving before your very eyes, allowing for a smooth, non-destructive removal.  Automotive degreaser is generally gentle enough it wont affect plastics or react with painted surfaces, but is still powerful enough to soften the glue holding the sticker.


For those pesky stickers that refuse to budge, a strategic approach is key. If the sticker appears to be paper layered with plastic, carefully peel off this top plastic layer to allow the degreaser better access to the underlying paper and adhesive. For fully plastic stickers, gently lift a corner, apply your degreaser, and work slowly, applying more as needed. Patience is your ally here.

Rescuing Appliances from Sticker Scars: A Last-Resort Method

If you’re dealing with an unsightly blemish left by a sticker that was removed too late from your appliance, there’s a last-resort solution that involves the use of creme peroxide, commonly used in hairdressing at a concentration of 12%. Before proceeding, it’s important to acknowledge the risks involved and consider this method only when other options have been exhausted.

 

To begin, ensure you’re wearing protective gloves (You really want to wear gloves, 12% hydrogen peroxide will quickly give you chemical burns) and evenly apply the peroxide over the entire affected area, not just where the blemish is. For example, if we’re removing the sticker from a freezer door, you want to treat the entire freezer door. Now you need to move the surface into direct sunlight, such that no part of it is in shade. The effectiveness of this treatment relies on the catalytic action of UV rays from direct sunlight, which helps the peroxide whiten the painted surface. However, this process requires careful monitoring. Every 10 minutes, thoroughly wash off all the peroxide to check the progress and prevent damage. Leaving the peroxide on for too long can cause the paint to blister, especially if the surface was already in a compromised condition. The exact time before damage occurs can vary, so it’s essential to proceed with caution.

 

It’s also crucial to ensure that the peroxide does not come into contact with any plastic parts of the appliance. While peroxide can restore a uniform white appearance to painted surfaces, it has a detrimental effect on plastics. Initially, the plastic may look brighter, but it quickly turns to a much more intense yellow, ultimately leading to an undesirable and unsightly yellow hue.  Remember, using peroxide is a risky procedure that could potentially harm your appliance’s surface. It should only be considered as a last resort and performed with the utmost care.

A Fisher Paykel E249T fridge with the freezer door open showing plastic trim yellowed and damaged by peroxide
The results of peroxide on plastic will be a brilliant white at first but quickly degrade to a horrific yellow.

In Conclusion

While it might be tempting to leave those stickers untouched, either out of laziness, fear, or a desire to preserve the appliance’s ‘newness’, the truth is they’re likely to damage the consistent appearance of your appliance and leave an unsightly mark if you leave them be. Embrace the brief moment of effort now to save yourself a heap of hassle later. Remember, a clean, uniform appliance is far more appealing than one marred by the ghosts of stickers past. Happy peeling, and may your appliances always reflect your impeccable taste and care.

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Don’t Fall for the Smart TV Trap: Why “Stupid” TVs with Smart Boxes Make More Sense

The allure of a smart TV is undeniable. They promise convenience and simplicity, with countless apps and services at your fingertips. Delving deeper however, is a solution that might seem awkward and needlessly complicated at first, but which is good advice upon closer examination: Opt for a “stupid” TV and enhance it with a smart TV box like a Google TV or Apple TV. This approach unifies the disparate pace at which the software side of TV viewing is evolving, like the available apps, streaming services, and functionality, with the now more incremental evolution of the hardware – the TV itself. The argument for a “stupid” TV paired with a separate streaming device is compelling, especially when considering the rapid pace at which smart functionality evolves compared to the relatively stable advancements in screen and other hardware technology. By separating the smart capabilities from the display, you ensure that your entertainment setup remains future-proof.

The Smart Choice in a World of Smart TVs: Don’t Buy a Smart TV

Gone are the days when annual updates rendered last year’s models obsolete. Today, whether you’re looking at OLED, QLED, or LED, the advancements in screen technology have become incremental rather than revolutionary. We are unlikely to see any new ports for a while. HDMI, USB, what more does the average consumer need? Neither is there any competing alternative on the horizon to to usurp their dominance. This slow in evolution means that investing in a good quality “stupid” TV can keep you contented for years, if not decades, with its performance. The real change and innovation occur on the software side, where new services and platforms emerge with dizzying frequency, and and the potential impact of rapid AI adoption remains a topic of speculation. As new streaming platforms emerge and existing ones update, a standalone streaming device can be easily upgraded, updated or replaced, keeping your home entertainment system current without the need to invest in a new television.

The Power Couple: Basic TVs and Advanced Streaming Devices

One of the most immediate benefits of pairing a smart TV box with a “stupid” TV is the cost-effectiveness. “Stupid” TVs, lacking the built-in smart technology, are cheaper than their smart counterparts. Smart TV boxes can be had cheaply as well, the Google TVHD is available for as low as $50. Another benefit is that you can choose the ecosystem you want. With plenty of Apple and Android fans out there, and having their TV operating on the same ecosystem as their phone really streamlines things. By separating out the smarts from the TV, consumers get an overall cheaper more tailored solution to their needs.

Choosing a “stupid” TV and pairing it with a smart TV box is also a sustainable choice. It significantly reduces electronic waste, as the lifespan of the display itself is extended, not being held back by outdated software. Instead of discarding a television simply because its smart features are outdated, you can continue using the same “stupid” TV for years, updating (soft and hard) the streaming device if needed.

From Limited Storage to Brand Tiffs: The Smart TV Pitfalls

I remember having an LG smart TV, and it had such a tiny amount of storage that you had to delete apps to fit new ones on. I remember in 2019 when Google and Amazon were having a tiff and refusing to allow each others streamers on their smart TV boxes or operating systems. I remember when it took LG a full 12 months after Disney+ was released for them to have it as an available app for download on my LG smart TV. And don’t even get me started on the smart functionality of my current Ffalcon 50” TV.

The 50” Ffalcon (a rebranded TCL) TV we offer at Whybuy is far from smart. It’s actually a bit embarrassing how bad it is in terms of smarts.  It doesn’t have Chromecast, instead some nonsense called T-Link, you can’t add new apps, and it has only Netflix, Stan, Crackle and Youtube alongside a bunch of weird apps. The processor is so underpowered that it lags when you change the volume.  This isn’t uncommon among Smart TV’s. We always advise our customers when they subscribe to this TV, that they should treat it as a stupid TV and outsource the smart functionality to a $50 Google TV. 

However, if you look past the smart features, the 50” Ffalcon is actually a fantastic TV. The picture is awesome, and the inbuilt sound is great as well. I personally have this TV, and I’ve paired it with a Google TVHD. You can opt for a more expensive Google TV4K as the TV is 4K HDR, but I, like most consumers can barely tell the difference between HD and 4K, and even if I could, I wouldn’t pay the extra for my streams to be in 4k, so barely any of the content I watch would be 4k. You can sync up the Google TV remote so it can power the TV on and off and adjust the volume (when prompted for the brand in the Google TV setup select TCL), but I’ve always needed the TV remote to change the HDMI input. I can live with that.

Beyond 40 Inches: The Challenge of Buying Big "Stupid" TVs

You might wonder why we even offer the 50” Ffalcon smart TV if they’re such a bad idea. Here’s the problem – once you go past 40”, it is basically impossible to find a non-smart TV; they are all smart. At Whybuy, all our TVs are “stupid” until you reach the 50″ model. Finding a large TV that isn’t smart is a challenge. So, the next best thing is to buy a TV based on picture quality and pair it with a Google TV or an Apple TV. Ensure it has enough ports for your needs so you’re not constantly plugging and unplugging devices. Sound is important, but if needed, you can always upgrade with a soundbar.

The Smart TV Trap

Why is it that all TV’s over 40 inches are smart TV’s? I have a theory. TV manufacturers have realised that screen technology has matured and they can’t expect consumers to throw their TV away every few years due to redundancy. So they’ve come up with something more deceptive. So, they’ve devised a more deceptive tactic: software that quickly becomes obsolete. This software, lucky to receive an update, runs on processors barely powerful enough at the time of release. If updates are provided, the applications often become more resource-intensive over time, leaving you without the necessary processing power. If updates cease, the apps might continue working until one day, they don’t, due to the app owner ending support for your version. Thus, within a few years, maybe 5 if you’re lucky, the smart functionality becomes obsolete, slow, buggy, prone to crashing, a security risk, and likely incompatible with some of your streaming apps.

Thin Margins and Hidden Profits

As TV prices have gotten cheaper, especially on the lower end of the market, the margins on the TV itself have become very thin. To compensate, TV manufacturers are increasingly making money through deals with streaming services and advertisers. They are paid to add special buttons to their remote controls and to preload bloatware onto the TVs. This practice not only enhances their revenue but also creates a feedback loop which encourages manufacturers to design a product which will need replacement every few years so they can profit again by adding new buttons and bloatware.

Planned Obsolescence

Consumer expectations have been shaped over the last two decades to believe their TV would become obsolete with hardware advancements, which is no longer the case. To maintain profits, manufacturers have introduced deliberate software obsolescence to their products, fostering the illusion of progression and prompting consumers to replace their TVs every few years. They can do this because the smart functionality is perceived as a minor component of the overall product. It’s not that the Smart TV no longer works; it’s that technological advancements have supposedly rendered the smart features obsolete, absolving manufacturers of blame for the premature obsolescence.

In contrast, streaming boxes like Google TV or Apple TV, designed solely to offer smart capabilities, face greater scrutiny. If they don’t perform well from the start and become obsolete within a few years, consumers would rightly be outraged and abandon these products. It can be seen that Smart TV box manufacturer interests are aligned much better than Smart TV manufacturers and consumers.

Ultimately, breaking free from the smart TV trap by opting for a ‘stupid’ TV and a smart streaming device is a testament to smarter consumerism. It champions a more enjoyable, cost-effective, and environmentally friendly approach to staying on the cutting edge of entertainment technology. So, before you commit to another smart TV, consider the benefits of this smarter combination. It’s a decision that promises to enhance your viewing pleasure and simplify your life in the long run.